PRINT: Rock Climb Jugline, Joshua Tree National Park

Jugline

5.11c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 17 votes
FA: unknown FL: Paul Borne
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Outback > Patagonia Pile > Patagonia Pile - E Face

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Thin crimping past the first bolt leads to a powerful traverse with nonexistent feet on the face. Clip the second bolt and manage the gymnastic slopers to gain a stance about bolt level. Climb through the bulge ( the most comitting part of the route ) to the next horizontal. Positive holds, rests, and three more bolts see you through the rest of the overhanging "jugline".

This route combines thin crimping, slopy bouldering moves, with excellent overhanging moves. Very enjoyable and very doable for the grade.

Protection

5 bolts to a two bolt anchor. Optional .4-.5 gear between bolts 2&3.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Patagonia Pile Left

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA

5.11c PG13

The lieback moves past the second bolt are, as noted, somewhat committing but higher the pro is quite generous. Excellent steep climbing for those who are sick to death of slab paddling up dummy domes. Feb 10, 2004

Theo Colameco
Boulder,Co.

Also called Hot Legs Contest! During the time Paul was drilling this on lead. We had two beautiful women w/ us sunbathing topless on the rock below. Florence and another Doll! I redpointed it after his first lead! Back in the day! Peace Paul! Still climbing Florence? Oct 24, 2008

Tradiban

So what we have here folks is a sport climb with the hardest, reachy-ist, slickest moves risking a sketchy fall and a possible swing into your belayor. There was a bolt to fix this problem but it looks like someone chopped it. Stupid.

Otherwise good climbing. Feb 9, 2020

Skyeler Congdon
Western Slope

5.11c

I disagree with Tradi on this one. Didn't find anything particularly sketchy on this rad line (Wet T Shirt would be the heady lead, IMO). I placed a 0.4 and 0.5 between 2nd and 3rd bolt, and then backcleaned one of them and felt warm & fuzzy. OS felt solid at the grade for the Park.

Without gear, yes, getting to the third bolt would be heads up, but bring a single 0.5 and you're fine.

Super classic line!! This whole wall is great and worth running laps on when you want steep, shady, uncrowded 11s near camp! Mar 2, 2022

Tradiban
951-527-7959

This is described as a sport climb in at least one of the guidebooks thus I didn't bring any gear for it and I don't remember a placement in that sketchy spot but with that bolt missing it can't be considered a sport climb. Blame Miramontes.

To clarify this is totally bolted as a sport climb except the crux, bring a .5 I guess ¯\_( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°)_/¯ Mar 2, 2022