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Routes in Little Rock Candy Mountain

Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chicken Comb T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Count Chocula TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flake Hickey T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kendall Mint Cake T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Rock Candy Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
M & M's Peanut T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
M & Ms Plain T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
McStumpy Sandwich T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
My Balls feel like a Pair of Maracas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Squirrel Roast T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Three Musketeers, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Evans, Gordon, Michael
Page Views: 480 total, 2/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

An excellent route up the sunny southwestern corner of the formation. It starts in a shallow corner with a thin crack (5.9ish). After a couple moves to the top of the corner, move slightly left to the exposed arĂȘte. Climb the large patina plates on the arĂȘte to the top. Pro includes TCUs and maybe a slung plate or two. It looks questionable from below, but ends up having solid placements right where you need them (PG). The best route on the crag.

Protection

thin to 1"

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
Ditto what AJ said...the climbing is good and the protection, despite appearances, is actually quite good. Jan 13, 2004