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Routes in West Wall Outer (Buckets to Burbank Area)

Buckets to Burbank T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Hanging Hungover TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Holds to Hollywood T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Knob Cheese T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
La Bella Katchina T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ledges to Lawndale T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Pullups to Pasadena T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Todd Swain and Dan Wirth, March 1985
Page Views: 1,610 total, 9/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Oct 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

On the left side of the face look for two bolts high up, then draw an imaginary line straight down from the first bolt to the ground to figure where the route starts. Climb steep overhanging buckets (with great holds) to a horizontal crack and then follow the bolt line past a second horizontal to the top. This route is to the left of Buckets to Burbank.

Protection

2 bolts, small nuts/cams in first horizontal crack, bolted anchor

Photos

Eric Holden
Temecula, CA
  5.9 R
Eric Holden   Temecula, CA
  5.9 R
Loved this climb. A little of everything. Started with some heel hooks instead of just pull ups to get to the first crack. Highly recommended! Mar 4, 2013
Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
this was an early 5.10a for me (apparently everybody thinks it's more like 5.9, but whatever) Did it in the real real cold with my little bro. Those horizontals take shit gear. i did not want to fall. i probably could have gotten better gear, but I was fiddling with some tricams (WHY?) and was generally displeased with the situation. I don't think i've ever used a tricam again. Feb 4, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a R
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.10a R
This is a great climb with a good variety of moves. The start can be pumpy but doesn't have to be if you find the finesse moves, and is probably 5.9. The crux is definately the top out - thin and balancy. Best climb on this face, IMO. May 14, 2007
Jon Leicht
  5.9
Jon Leicht  
  5.9
Did this the other morning on TR. Very cold! Goofed of with a bunch of different starts. Never felt as hard as 5.10 only the topout felt a little thin, but my hands were numb...so i would say downgrade Mar 5, 2007
Andy
5.9
Andy  
5.9
Kept expecting a 10a move, but didn't find one. However, I did do it on top rope. If I had done it on lead, I bet the moves would have seemed harder given the sparse protection. Feb 9, 2005
The first section to the first horizontal crack is great fun. The climb feels a bit dangerous after that. In particular a fall after clipping the second bolt could make you hit a ledge. I felt the climb much softer than 5.10, probably an 8 or a 9. This is the first time this thing happens to me at Joshua tree. I don't think I will repeat this climb. In the first horizontal crack there is a decent place for a #1 and a #2 Camalots. I didn't know how solid they were so after the climb, we tested the placements and they were bomber. On the second horizontal crack I placed a red alien, totally laughable physiological protection. Jan 24, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.9
did this again today......unlike last year when I felt it should be rated 5.9+, today it felt more like 5.9.......... The climbs near are deffinatly worth doing also. And for the faint at heart (Considering all the discussion going on about anchors, walkoffs etc...) this one has an easy downclimb. The anchors on top are not set up for rappeling......... Oct 3, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10a PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a PG13
It's possible to get a good 2.5" piece in the horizontal before the first bolt. Feb 15, 2004
I forgot to mention this route is on the west face of the west horror rock. Oct 12, 2003