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Routes in Roadside Rock

Cheap Thrills TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Just Another Roadside Attraction T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Roy's Solo T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stains of the Stars T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,987 total, 10/month
Shared By: Steven Powers on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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56 Opinions

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Description

This is a fun climb located literally roadside. It follows the obvious crack system up the middle of the face, and being so close to the road you could almost belay from the passenger seat of your new shiny H2...make sure and smile at all the tourists that are creating the traffic jam behind them. I've done this route a few times and always had a couple of cars stop for photos of my friends and I on the route. Maybe give them something to talk about and take a small whipper on purpose (wink, wink).

Protection

.5 - 3 Camalot including the anchor. Descend via the east side of the formation.

Photos

dnaiscool  
 
I think this route is terrific: steep, cool movement on highly featured vertical rock, and the shortest approach ever. If you have not done this climb, then knock it off the next time you are driving by. 5.9...sure...why not.

Good Pro, too:
#1,2,3 TCU; #1,2(2),3 Camalot; #13 stopper...and 2" to 4" gear (+slings) for the top belay

Easy walk off to climber's left. Apr 18, 2015
Gavin Bridgeman
Tustin, California
 
Gavin Bridgeman   Tustin, California
 
Maybe I botched the sequence, but I felt this to be right on at 5.9, if only for a move. Oct 28, 2013
Shipp
laguna beach, ca
  5.7+
Shipp   laguna beach, ca
  5.7+
Now I know why they call this roadside attraction - last Friday at sunset, on our way out of the park just passing roadside attraction. A car stops and two hot chicks jump out in black trench coats. They proceed to take off the coats and pose naked for a full photo shoot. I just love Joshua Tree. Jan 23, 2009
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.7
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.7
Add another vote for soft.

A good first 5.9 if someone is chasing the number? Oct 15, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I don't go along with the 5.7 rating. Most of it is, but when it gets wider, I think it's a bit harder. Sep 17, 2006
Bo Johnston
  5.9
Bo Johnston  
  5.9
This route was great! Steep as heck for a 5.9 but the holds are definitely there. No way on the 5.7 idea but I can see how on a strong day it may feel easy. I was pleased with the length but would have loved it to keep going. Oct 10, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
 
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
 
My son and I just did this the other day. It protected well and we give it a rating of 5.fun! Easy walkoff, in the shade in the afternoons, close to road, easy to set anchors on top. Only drawback is it is too damned short! Call up the one in charge and request another earthquake! Mar 16, 2004
Oof, 5.7? That hurts. I certainly didn't think it was a solid 5.9, but now your just making me feel bad. Perhaps it's the mentality I have of going up against Josh 5.9s. Fun route at the top, but too short. Sep 12, 2003
Randy
5.7
Randy  
5.7
When I did this route last year, it seemed VERY soft for 5.9. An OK little route, but more like 5.7. Sep 10, 2003