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Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms)
5.7,
Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.6 from 19
votes
FA: Wendell Smith and John Falcon, November 1973
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Indian Cove
> Indian Cove Cam…
> Indian Cove CG…
> Moosedog Tower
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The 1970 Wolfe guide book only had a handfull of routes outside of HVCG. The only climbs in Indian Cove mentioned were "a short practice wall" and The California Crack A3, F6. There was also a sentence that led some of us to assume that the rock wasn't very good here. One evening I talked John into taking a detour on the way home to check it out.
In our "altered" state, the second we saw Moosedog we had to get to the top of it. The most impressive line (Tranquility) was out of the question as we had only about an hour of daylight left. I spoted a shorter line up the draw and off we went. The first pitch went fast, and we were soon at the belay, (where 3rd Times A Charm Intersects). I couldn't get a good pin placement at the crux, but I had been experimenting with these things the Brit's called chocks and got a home made nut in. (I think it was the first one I placed because I had to).
We walked across the top just as night fell, looking for rappel anchors. Astonishingly a block at the summit was festooned with rap slings, some many years old. We rappelled into the blackness and headed for home, jazzed that we had done it tempered with the disappointment that we weren't the first ones on top.
Description:Start at a ramp about 50' below the notch. Go up a left facing book. Just above where 3rd Times A Charm intersects is the crux. This climb can proabably be done as one long pitch with a 60M rope, but the rope drag and communication problems make it best done as two short pitches.
Protection
Standard trad rack
[Hide Photo] At the crux of Racing the Sun
[Hide Photo] Copied this pic from the "Half Time" description (nice pic!) and marked it up to show our attempt to follow the description of "Racing the Sun" (green dots). 1st half of our 1st pitch is below the…
Albuquerque, NM
Note that the above comments are based on this route as shown in the beta photo titled "Moosedog Tower - SW Face."
Enjoyed the route as an end-of-the-day climb to an enjoyable view. Apr 16, 2007
you didn't do the route. Apr 21, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
Albuquerque, NM
Any comments on whether this is "Racing the Sun"? I think the question is whether or not our 1st pitch was on route (as much as can be seen in the photo). May 27, 2007
First pitch was more or less correct. Original line maybe a little left using the big flake. Nov 25, 2007
Albuquerque, NM
While Racing The Sun and Third Times A Charm intersect, they do not otherwise overlap. Yes? This appears to contradict the photo submitted by Mike M (10/26/2003) - the beta photo that shows various routes on Moosedog Tower which I mentioned in my first comment.
I updated our route markings (green dots) with a yellow arrow showing what I think is the correct finish. Let me know if it is not close. Dec 20, 2007
work.
And it can easily be done in 1 pitch. Just have your belayer scramble up to the big platform. May 7, 2008
Kamas, Utah
Oak Park, CA