PRINT: Rock Climb Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge), Joshua Tree National Park

Ocean of Night (aka Out to Grunge)

5.10b/c, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.8 from 39 votes
FA: Tom Beck & Robert Stavely-Parker, 1982
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Cove > Echo Cove - S Side

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Start on a pumpy flake moving on to a nice resting ledge. The top half of the climb is a scary move over the crux to the single bolt followed by a thin finger crack to the finish.

Protection

gear to 3", bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I love this route and am amazed that more people don't do it. I suppose it's overshadowed by the line of people waiting to do Big Moe.

"Ocean Of Night".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.<br>

"Ocean Of Night". Photo by Blitzo.

Ocean of Night (5.10c) actually finishes left of ther pictured climber. He is attempting to set up a TR on another climb

Here is a better shot of the bottom section of this climb...This is Michael getting started!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Crack Addict
San Diego, CA

I backed off this route after placing my second cam in the flake. As I tugged on it loose grains were raining down from inside the flake. I didn't trust the placement so I backed off and set up a TR. Fun climb on TR. Apr 8, 2004

Pat W

I've only done this one on TR, and the anchor can be a bit zooish. From the top, I set some bigger cams way back in the middle of the formation, something like BD 2-4 equalized with a couple cordalettes. You could probably set an anchor on the edge of the lip using two or more pieces in the #1 camalot size, but a directional would be nessecary to prevent a TR'd climber from swinging into blocks on the climber's left. Overall, a good and varied route, sustained despite the ledge in the middle. 5.10a/b jam or lieback down low and 5.10bish face climbing above. On lead, don't blow the upper face moves near the bolt as you'd probably deck on the ledge. I'd enjoy leading it next time around. Oct 5, 2007

Kris Spevak

This is a really fun route, we put an anchor at the top just under the lip... no directional needed as you don't swing very hard toward the rocks on the left. Nov 19, 2007

Charles I.
Boulder, CO

5.10b

My buddy ripped a # 4 out of the previously mentioned grainy rock while hanging after he botched the sequence at the bottom - yikes! If your leading I found it better to climb into the stance above the lieback (grainy)portion where you have many gear options available. Interesting climbing past the bolt puts you on top. The bolt above the ledge is pretty darn high I found. I had to climb up a ways to get it clipped - kinda spooky when your last piece is way below the ledge some 20'down. Once past the bolt climbing eases at very the top. Very exciting lead. Love great climbs like these that get NO stars in the book! Jan 14, 2008

Choncho

Ripped a piece while dogging, freaked out by a high bolt and still down grading. Classic. May 10, 2009

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.10b/c

Climbed this route for the first time last weekend (thanks for the recommendation Kris/Randy). It is quite good; maybe 3 of 5 stars. Pro seemed good in the flake (but a little strenuous to place). The thin diagonal seam above the bolt is harder than you expect -- you wouldn't want to blow the lieback moves. Oct 12, 2009

Matt Hagny

5.10c

The bottom part is super fun, and fairly easy, although a bit awkward to place pro initially. The top is scary indeed -- I had visions of shattering both ankles by falling onto the ledge. The moves past the bolt are thin, technical, and insecure, and you don't get gear for 8 - 10' past the bolt. Oct 27, 2016

Ice4life
US

Lead this and hung a few times, didn't dare fall down low on that flake... Very grainy, shit breaking off.

Bolt at crux is nice, the crux top half is deff commiting, but if you made it there, shouldn't be to much of an issue.

NO bolts at top for TR anchor, you need to go back and left 15-20 feet to a small .75-#1 or smaller green aliens crack, or bring big shit for the big crack at your feet at the top out. For TR, bring a static line to extend the TR. Dec 14, 2016

Josh S
California

It's easy to build an anchor just under the lip at the finish with cams in the .5-1 range and then when done clean it from above. You could also use the crack ~15ft back from the edge instead, but I have no idea why. Sep 29, 2023

Milt Strickler
Louisville CO

5.10b/c

Ocean of Night is such a better name than Out to Grunge, which is what it was called when I did it in 1981. I led this with visiting German climber Walter Fichter whom I met in the campground. In those days the upper overhanging face (crux) was protected by a single manky 1/4 inch bolt, long overdue for replacement. When I balked at making the moves past this bolt, Walter just said cryptically, "You should not climb in our areas." (i.e. in Germany). I finally got it together to make the moves. Would have been enjoyable with a decent bolt ---- a fall here with bolt failure would have meant certain ground fall, after hitting the sloping ledge on the way down. No fun. I'm sure that bolt has been replaced by now multiple times. Also, in those days the route was called 5.10a, which I thought was a bit of a sandbag.
I just noticed that the FA attribution above says 1982. I'm sure that it was early 1981 when Walter and I did this, and it was in the (Vogel?) guide/supplement that we had. Jan 4, 2024