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29 Palms
5.11d,
Trad, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 33
votes
FA: Tony Yaniro, Mike Lechlinski, Vaino Kodas and Alan Nelson, 1981
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Arid Piles
> Arid Piles - Northwes…
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that: 1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor. 2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
Difficult lieback/jam moves reach the very steep left-facing corner with a seam in the middle. Extremely technical and challenging palming and stemming moves go over a bulge to a lower angle section with a finger sized crack. Near the top the climb steepens before the anchors.
Location
This climb is on the northwest face of the Arid Piles formation. Approach from the northeast end and enter the 29 Palms Corridor. Scrambling over boulders within the corridor leads to the base of the route.
Protection
#000 C3's, small to medium brass and cams, and one 1" cam for protection.
Bolted anchors (3/8") with rappel rings are at the top.
[Hide Photo] Had a lot of trouble finding this route since it's actually in a corridor and not easily visible from the trail. Here's what the 29 palms corridor looks like from the trail to the north. Hope this…
[Hide Photo] Tony Yaniro on the FA of 29 Palms (5.11d), Joshua Tree NP Photo by Alan Nelson
[Hide Comment] Hey Vern,I wouldn't want to discourage anyone from this excellent route. I actually found it easier for the grade. It's all about creative stemming and it's a great route to improve your stemming techniques. No finger strenght required.Brian Smith
May 30, 2003
[Hide Comment] I found this to be a major sandbag at 11d. It's at least as hard if not harder than Warrior Eagle. Warrior Eagle is another classic JT stemming corner which clocks in at 12b.
Apr 18, 2016
[Hide Comment] You do not need two ropes to TR. If you go up from the right you can do a 5.easy traverse left to reach the anchor. If you build an anchor at the top of the formation, you can rap to the route’s anchor and retrieve your gear later or rap directly to the ground with a 60M (knot your ends).
Dec 24, 2018
[Hide Comment] The original rating was .12a. It was done in EBs . I haven't climbed it in over two decades. I led it with 1 fall in March 1984. Returned in 1988 & climbed it without falling. The RPs (steel nuts) through the series of crux moves are bomber. One of the most memorable leads I did in Joshua Tree. Desperate stemming. I'm sure top roping makes the climb feel much easier. I always thought it was harder than Hidden Arch.
Feb 10, 2019
[Hide Comment] I rapped in to check out the gear and get it all sorted out before leading it, because the gear really is quite thin. With that being said, all of the gear you place is bomber once you figure it out.
I can second the zero finger strength comment, I recently injured a pulley and climbed this without using my fingers! Superb climbing on good rock - highly recommended.
Jan 6, 2020
[Hide Comment] I swear if you have fat fingers, like I do, this thing is 5.12. First time on this BITD it was a wonder my feet were sticking because my hands were on nothing. Was climbing in an old pair of slippers and was going full flush sole on rock. Great route. Wish I'd gotten the FA.
Apr 21, 2022
Avg: 3.8 from 33
votes
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
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CA
Planet Earth
Index WA
Redondo Beach, CA
I can second the zero finger strength comment, I recently injured a pulley and climbed this without using my fingers! Superb climbing on good rock - highly recommended. Jan 6, 2020
Tustin, CA
Venice