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Routes in The Morrissey Crag

Last of the Famous International Playboys T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
You're the One For Me, Fatty T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: V. Stiefel & H. Harris, 5/18/03
Page Views: 45 total, 0/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The climb ascends two very thin and discontinuous cracks that don't reach the ground on the east face. The rock is slightly overhanging for the first half of the climb (40').

Begin left of the cracks in a dihedral and climb 10' to a ledge. Traverse right to the base of one of the cracks. A #2 TCU (awkward placement) protects difficult moves over a bulging section. One more bulge higher up leads to the top. Protection is intermittent and challenging to place but solid. This climb has the potential to be 3 stars out of 5 but more ascents are needed to clean up the rock.

Protection

Very thin to 0.75" including brass and very small TCU's (#00 - #4). Double Ropes are helpful to minimize drag. Bring medium to large cams for the anchor. Down climb off the south end of the crag.
Randy  
Looks like a body double/photoshop fake to me (head clearly pasted on some more buff climber's body). Backclip, smack-clip, whaddah ya mean? Seems OK to me. Jun 13, 2003
I thought "backclipping" is only a climbing gym phenomenon....right Randy? Jun 11, 2003
C Miller   CA  
Looks like the route Church Bazaar or Hintertoisser Traverse perhaps - just a guess. Jun 11, 2003
Yikes, Sherlock! You may have had something there if it weren't for the fact that Randy never wears tank tops (no farmers tan). Jun 11, 2003
I don't know about it being a fake, the rope is backclipped after all! Jun 11, 2003
I believe that they used a body double (maybe Largo)! Jun 11, 2003
Check out the lycra! But the photo is clearly a fake, you can see Cyclops Rock in the background. Besides, Randy's taste isn't that good. Jun 10, 2003