Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Mari Gingery, Mike Lechlinski & John Yablonski, 1979
Page Views: 1,688 total · 9/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on May 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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58 Opinions

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This enjoyable trad climb on solid brown rock begins in a very thin crack about 30' up from Captain Kronos. The crack becomes progressively wider after going over a small roof. Pro is bomber and easy to place.


Small to medium stoppers, small to medium TCU's and a few cams to 3.5". Small to medium TCU's or cams for an anchor. Walk off to the south (towards Sports Challenge Rock) for the descent.


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
A fun route with great jamming on solid varnish. Good pro, a nice sunny exposure and a casual walk to approach. Nov 11, 2003
Don't traverse all the way left under the route. Found it to be a little harder than anticipated. Keep aiming straight up from the initial seam. Jan 13, 2004
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
This is one pumpy little devil! Don't make the mistake I did trying to fiddle gear in at the roof. Just stand up a little higher and you can get in a bomber nut. Unfortunately, there are a few loose blocks in the crack up higher that you might want to pro behind.

Great climb. 10b, but pumpy for the grade IMO. Apr 17, 2008
Ian McEleney
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Ian McEleney   Mammoth Lakes, CA
I second the previous post about trying to get gear at the roof. Much better to get up high and get a good nut or cam. This climb has got some real fun moves, but it might not be a great choice for budding 10b leaders. Nov 17, 2008
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
A very sustained route. Sneaky gear at the start (I got a wire in the crack to the right at the roof and them moved into the route) but it sounds like perhaps a bit higher would have been easier? Mar 21, 2012
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Great rock in a great winter spot. This route makes you try hard and is fulfilling!! Nov 15, 2012
Great climb on good rock. The bottom was a little pumpy with a great rest. It looked hard to pull the roof from the ground but it was actually not bad with nice finger locks. Crux came right after a huge jug with a move of tips crack to get higher. Pumpy, sustained 5.9 climbing with a two move 10.b crux. Feb 19, 2013
Herm Harrison
Bishop, CA
Herm Harrison   Bishop, CA
best route on the wall! Oct 17, 2018
  5.10+ PG13
  5.10+ PG13
Brilliant climb! I absolutely love it, but having said that it’s quite hard 5.10 with pro that’s only good enough if yer honed at placing it!

This previous comment is BS btw:

“Pro is bomber and easy to place“ 6 days ago