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Routes in The Trad Crag

Balloon That Would Not Die, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
It's Good To Be King T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
King Of Jesters, Jester To Kings T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sanga's On Fire, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Evans, Burch, Schubert
Page Views: 959 total, 5/month
Shared By: David Evans on May 2, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The crag is split by a large ledge system. This finger crack starts off a 20' flake off the ledge. The clean finger crack arches up the white/gray varnished face to a ledge 40' below the top. This quality pitch is ~100' long. A short steep 5.8 hand crack takes one to the top. We did a long rappel off runners on two knobs to the right of the crack.

Protection

Standard rack to 2.5".

Photos

Some small nuts protect the short crux after leaving the flake. The finger crack is more like a flaring shallow groove at times, making reliable cam placements difficult. A bit gritty still from lack of traffic, but a fun climb nonetheless. We also soloed the approach gully to the right, not bad, maybe 5.6-5.7.

New green 6mil cord on the nut-nest rap anchor as of 11/2012. 2 ropes get you back to your packs. Nov 5, 2012
Graham Roff
  5.10b
Graham Roff  
  5.10b
A great route. Protection is a little tricky in the bottom finger crack, but adequate. Plan your gear carefully near the top of the flake as rope drag could get bad when you start up the hand crack.

We did a short rap off a knob down and to the right of the climb, to a nest of nuts and old slings, and from there down to the starting ledge. Ugly ugly descent - someone should put some rap anchors in up there. Oct 24, 2006
Murf
  5.10b
Murf  
  5.10b
Long intriguing pitch, seemed almost Tahquitz-like with some green lichen, odd sizing, and tricky pro in places. We did a short approach from the right ( 1-2 5th class moves ) which from the picture was *not* the BTWND. Could not find the previous rap, to cheap to leave anything, did a fairly long descent to climber's right. The best moderate route we did for the day, 3 of 5 *'s. It took some effort to spot this one, another obscure classic for AJ and DE. Apr 4, 2005
The Sanga, The Sanga, The Sanga is on fire. We don't care, let the motherf*cker burn. May 12, 2003
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
Brilliant route name - it took me seeing it at least 4 times before it sunk in. May 12, 2003
David Evans  
 
The route is on the middle tier of the three visible in the sun with the upper crack visible. May 8, 2003