PRINT: Rock Climb South of Heaven, Joshua Tree National Park

South of Heaven

5.12d, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 4 from 5 votes
FA: Tom Gilje and Mike Lechlinksi, 1990
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Valley of Kings > Slatanic Area

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.

The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Seasonal raptor closure for entire Slatanic Area from 2/19/2014 to 6/15/2014.

Description

This amazing line tackles the right-hand arete of a large block deep in the upper reaches of Rattlesnake Canyon. Those who venture out to this area will be rewarded with one of the most asthetic and spectacular lines in Joshua Tree.

A start in some cracks with fixed pins lead out right to the arete proper where bolts protect technical and balancy arete climbing.

Protection

1 fixed pin, 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (1/2" SS)

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Lechinski on South of Heaven

Photo by H. Harris, 05/04/03

Tom Gilje on SOH

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

RTM

5.12d

I would agree that this is one of THE most spectacular lines in Josh, and one of the hardest to find. My hamstring was hammed for a week after that one. May 5, 2003

Vernon Stiefel

One of the fixed pitons had disintegrated and I pulled it out of the crack when I climbed the route on TR. It is easy to protect the lower crack portion with TCU's on lead. May 5, 2003

Blitzo

I love that album! Slayer's KILLER!
The route is too hard for me, but I would like to photograph someone on it. Sep 24, 2006

Pete Muffoletto
Oakland, CA

Easily approached by taking the wash directly underneath the Bulkhead and then heading directly to the Bulkhead. Break left of the Bulkhead and head straight up the hillside towards the dark brown chossy formations at the summit of the hill. Head over the "saddle" onto a flat area and you should see the prominent Slatanic formation at the top of the gulley. Amazing formation with superb rock. 45+ mins if approached correctly.

If attempting to set up a TR by approaching the top of the formation be aware of the single manky bolt that gets you to the South of Heaven anchor. A 2nd bolt up there would be a prudent idea. Nov 28, 2011

Josh Janes

The bolted anchor atop the formation was replaced courtesy of the ASCA with 1/2" stainless hardware in 2013.

If you use and appreciate updated bolts in J Tree, consider a donation to the ASCA at safeclimbing.org.

All of the pro bolts appear to be in good shape. Only one of the two pins remain, but the climbing leading up to the first bolt can be sewn up with 0.3, 0.4, and 0.5 Camalots. Apr 7, 2013

Michal
Index WA

Best line I've had pleasure to climb in JTree. Better than Acid Crack, Astroid, Father Figure, Stingray etc.. easily as good as Equinox!!! Well worth the hike. Feb 13, 2023