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Routes in Gateway Rock

Broken Glass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
False Tumbling Rainbow T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hands Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In The Pit T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lay Back And Do It TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Martin Quits T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pit Bull Attack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Semi Tough T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Solo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Charles Cole, Gib Lewis and Randy Vogel, December 1979
Page Views: 1,405 total, 7/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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35 Opinions

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Description

This route lies on the left side of a buttress of rock, near the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. It lies about 50 feet right of Solo.

Just as you enter into Real Hidden Valley, where the nature trail "T"s, look left to the northeast corner of Gateway Rock. This dogleg crack lies on the east (left) side of a small buttress.

This climb has cleaned up very nicely over the years. A good lead for someone breaking into the grade.

Protection

To 2.5 inches.

Photos

Gear anchor used medium gear (.75, 1, and 2). Down climb is ~5.5 or 5.6 on somewhat hollow rock. But I get it, sorta. People deserve to observe and photograph clean rock. The down climb makes you evaluate the standard of J Tree bolting ethics and the extent to which the value of a clean rock outweighs the luxury of an easy rap. 5 days ago
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Not to be missed. It's right there, but it seems overlooked. Would be a fun outing to hit up Illusion Dweller & Ball Bearing along with it. It is indeed sharp, but makes for solid jams. 10a is fair and a good audience can be fun sometimes. Nov 15, 2012
Longish video of the climb. Best viewed with the shades down.

youtube.com/watch?v=HP2Y1BD… Jul 18, 2011
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
The walk off is easy if you find the right path. Descend into the tunnel directly climbers-left from the top of the rock. Head N in the tunnel towards the start of your climb. Make some 4th class chimney/hip-scum moves and voila - back at the base of the climb.

Really fun route. Yes it is sharp, and tape is recommended, but the jams are sweet! Apr 22, 2008
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
 
Better route than "In the Pit" in my opinion. I agree this would be a great first .10a crack lead. Protects nicely, and good footholds to the left of the crack make it easy to place gear. The only drawback is its proximity to the popular trail. Expect onlookers. Apr 2, 2008
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
  5.10a
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
  5.10a
I liked it... except for the sucky walk off Mar 24, 2008
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10a
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10a
Great route! This route deserves more traffic in my opinion. No approach, fun steep jamming, good gear, and shady all day. Next time you're on the way to Illusion Dweller, tick this one too. I found a #3 Camalot useful for the final move to the top. Apr 12, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Despite the name, this route has fun jamming on decent rock with a very short approach. Jan 13, 2004