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Mulholland Drive
5.11c R,
Trad, 90 ft (27 m),
Avg: 2.5 from 2
votes
FA: V. Stiefel, R. Vogel, H. Harris, 2003
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Indian Cove
> Rattlesnake Canyon
> Valley of Kings
> Lynch Crag
Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024
Details
Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb begins in a very shallow dihedral with an unprotectable seam a few yards left of Powered by Old English (PbOE). Tenuous face climbing (5.10+) leads to an initially intermittent finger crack 15' from the bottom. The crux involves sequential moves that are technical and powerful over two bulges. Near the top the finger crack curves 90 degrees to the right and merges with PbOE. Clip the last bolt on PbOE before reaching the anchors.
Protection
Camming units to 1.5" including small TCU's (#00 - #3) or aliens, brass, and small to medium stoppers provide solid protection. A two bolt anchor is on top (shares the same anchor as Powered by Old English). We left carabiners on the hangers to rappel from (please leave them there).
[Hide Photo] Deep into the crux section .... definitely not dreaming.....
[Hide Photo] Vern about to tackle the crux section of Mullholland Drive (or was this dream sequence?). Copyright 2003, by Randy V.