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Routes in The Lynch Crag

Eraserhead T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mulholland Drive T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Powered by Old English T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wounded Knee T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: V. Stiefel, R. Vogel, H. Harris, 2003
Page Views: 400 total · 2/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb begins in a very shallow dihedral with an unprotectable seam a few yards left of Powered by Old English (PbOE). Tenuous face climbing (5.10+) leads to an initially intermittent finger crack 15' from the bottom. The crux involves sequential moves that are technical and powerful over two bulges. Near the top the finger crack curves 90 degrees to the right and merges with PbOE. Clip the last bolt on PbOE before reaching the anchors.

Protection

Camming units to 1.5" including small TCU's (#00 - #3) or aliens, brass, and small to medium stoppers provide solid protection. A two bolt anchor is on top (shares the same anchor as Powered by Old English). We left carabiners on the hangers to rappel from (please leave them there).

Photos

Vernon Stiefel
  5.11c
Vernon Stiefel  
  5.11c
The puzzling and stimulating nature of the climbing on this route motivated us to name it after the movie by the infamous D. Lynch. Apr 20, 2003

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