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Routes in Fraggle Rock

Cosmic Trigger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Have The Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolly Roger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poppin' and Breakin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prozac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scattered Remains T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sensory Deprivation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stairway to Kevin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Still, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tiers for Fears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Wuthering Heights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Rob Robinson, fall 1988
Page Views: 230 total, 1/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Mar 28, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

There are some fun and intriguing moves enroute to the top but more than a few holds are loose. Protection can be challenging to place because one side of the crack is smooth and the other side is coarse. If the rock was more solid, this route would rival other trad climbs on the formation in terms of quality.

Location

This attractive looking, left slanting, finger to hand crack is on a north face around the corner from I Have The Touch and Cosmic Trigger. It begins on top of a large boulder.

Protection

Brass and small to medium stoppers, small TCU's, and cams to 2" provide adequate protection. Medium cams can be used for an anchor. Walk down and right to the anchor on top of I Have The Touch and rappel.

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Richard Shore
  5.10c
Richard Shore  
  5.10c
Agree that this felt soft, even for the new 5.10d grade. Pretty fun route, nice and steep. Lots of loose flakes and grainy rock inside the crack lend to TRing over leading though, at least for me. Anchor can be built with a long cord using the big oak tree and a few 3" cams. Helmet for the belayer! Jan 30, 2013
I remember this being a very loose on-sight lead. The route has probably become a bit easier now since it seems some of the death choss has been clawed off. I'm amazed anyone ever does it ... it seems like it was way out in the middle of no where. Mar 25, 2004
Randy
5.10c
Randy  
5.10c
i found this route (originally rated 11b) to be way soft for the grade, even more so than the 10d rating given by Vern. 10b/c seemed more like it. Apr 16, 2003