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Party in the Desert

5.10b, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3 from 83 votes
FA: Bart Groendycke and Todd Alston, February 1990
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Corral Wall > Corral Wall - Left Side
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Description

One of the better climbs at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. 

Clip a bolt and move delicately up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to fingery edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.

  • The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite.

Location

Between A Fistful of Poodles and Party till Ya' Puke on an attractive brown face.

Protection

3 bolts (1/2"), gear to 2 inches, bolted anchor/rap (1/2")

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Party In The Desert".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Party In The Desert". Photo by Blitzo.
Setting up for the crux moves on Party in the Desert (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] Setting up for the crux moves on Party in the Desert (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Chris Parks climbs 'Party in the Desert' (10b). Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/05.
[Hide Photo] Chris Parks climbs 'Party in the Desert' (10b). Photo by Tony Bubb, 1/05.
The lower portion of Party in the Desert (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
[Hide Photo] The lower portion of Party in the Desert (5.10b), Joshua Tree NP
Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuck Wagon Crack to Party in the Desert
[Hide Photo] Left side of Corral Wall -- shows routes from Chuck Wagon Crack to Party in the Desert
Area photo for party in the desert 5.10b
[Hide Photo] Area photo for party in the desert 5.10b

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] An intricate climb with lots of cool moves. My crux was after clipping the first bolt, I did a messy lunge move for the bottom of the third crack, smack my wrist. Nov 24, 2003
Blitzo
 
[Hide Comment] Good route, probably my favorite at this crag. Oct 8, 2006
[Hide Comment] Repeated use has polished the start of this thing to epic proportions. Entry moves seem harder than 10b to me, if only for a couple of moves. Jan 22, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
[Hide Comment] IMO, the intial moves getting to the bottom of the crack was the crux. Getting to the third bolt seemed a bit of a mental crux. Excellent route! My first Josh .10b. Oct 1, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Orange, CA
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] more mental than anything Dec 20, 2007
JOHN HYDE
twentynine palms ca
[Hide Comment] great route, the crux is at the beginning of the route, it's very polished over time Aug 13, 2009
[Hide Comment] In my opinion, this route is at least 5.11 off the deck. Our party of 3, all solid 5.10 climbers, was shut down on the start of this route. Feb 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] The start is "worn out".

But, it's "The Monument" so the first ten feet don't count.

Rating stays the same. Feb 24, 2010
[Hide Comment] Nice to hear so many people are enjoying this route. Party in the Desert and Exfoliation Confrontation were put up on the same weekend in Feb. 1990. First routes on the Corral Wall.
Cheers! Jun 2, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] OK, I get it that ratings are "old school" at JTree but this is ridiculous. The first few moves are nowhere near 5.10b. Maybe not even 5.11b. Dec 9, 2012
MikeP ROWCC
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] Didn't find the start as hard as some people on here. It was certainly sequential and started with a high step sidepull to get going. A couple of slick footholds gets you into a 5.8 crack with bomber gear. The second bolt was spicy! Almost barndoored off! A little runout beyond that but the climbing lets up. Feb 19, 2013
Rob M
Shangri-LA
[Hide Comment] Start is very polished and IMHO a 10c move, maybe d, at least with my towering 5'9" frame. A longer reach could probably get a better hand and smear the feet.

No longer a 10b folks. Will try the sidepull next time and re-evaluate. Mar 11, 2013
Matt Hagny
  5.10b/c
[Hide Comment] The start is becoming more like 10c due to the polish of the footholds. Up high, it's certainly not more than 10b. Dec 6, 2017
Dustin Stephens
  5.10c/d
[Hide Comment] Incredibly good.... agree the start is now more like 10+ Jan 22, 2019
Andre Ribeiro
Idyllwild, CA
[Hide Comment] Excellent route. The polished foot hold at the start can be completely avoided. One move of 5.10+ sounds fair. Establishing myself past the horizontal on the run out after the second bolt caught my attention (I did not see any placements for gear). Dec 28, 2022
Jessie Boas
Truckee, CA
[Hide Comment] Honestly… didn’t feel polished at the bottom, just need good footwork. Don’t be dissuaded by polish comments, this route is great! Feb 7, 2024