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Routes in Varnished Wall

Circle of Benevolence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crank Queenie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Sucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Meets West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosaic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presence of Grace T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
With Malice and Forethought T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 1995
Page Views: 436 total, 2/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start right of With Malice and Forethought (same as for Circle of Benevolence) and climb past a horizontal crack to access a smooth face with two bolts. The climb heads right after the second bolt and passes a fixed pin in a left-slanting seam before topping out.

Perhaps viewed as a variation to Circle of Benevolence, or that as a variant to this, the climbing is fun on good rock all within a short walk of your car. What more could you want?

Protection

2 bolts, FP, pro to 2"

Photos

Richard Shore  
5.11
Some powerful undercling-crimps on this one, with bad feet to boot. I had no problem with the standard .10d finish on CoB, but couldn't even get to the pin on this variation. Maybe because it was the end of the day, maybe because my tips were already blown from 3 days climbing in Indian Cove, but I'd argue that this one is solid 5.11. Dec 23, 2012
Bob Gaines
  5.11a
Bob Gaines  
  5.11a
At the first bolt, instead of climbing straight up the slab (10+), you can also traverse right, then up (5.10-) for an easier variation to reach the second bolt. After clipping the second bolt, move back down a few feet, then traverse right and up to a left-diagonalling seam with a fixed pin (knifeblade) that provides additional protection for the crux (5.11-).

There are threaded rap slings about 20 ft. higher (90 ft. rap)

This route has some of the best rock in Indian Cove campground. Apr 20, 2010