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Routes in Varnished Wall

Circle of Benevolence T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Crank Queenie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Disco Sucks T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Crux T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
East Meets West T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Mosaic T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Presence of Grace T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
With Malice and Forethought T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Bob Gaines, 1995
Page Views: 632 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start just right of With Malice and Forethought and climb up past a horizontal crack to reach a face with two bolts. Cut left to join With Malice and Forethought after the second bolt and belay from a ledge.

Good moves on clean, solid rock make this a fun climb to do if in the area.

Protection

2 bolts, pro to 2"

Photos

David Vogel
Lake Forest, CA
 
David Vogel   Lake Forest, CA
 
Slinged horn is good. 11/2017. Two cords looking OK, not bleached or tattered too badly. It would be nice to have a fresh 3rd on there at the moment, but currently no worries. 3-4 skinny rap rings attached good to go. The quality of the rock on Varnished wall is most superb! Nov 23, 2017
Ralph Swansen
Denver CO
  5.10d
Ralph Swansen   Denver CO
  5.10d
Slinged horn is gone. We found a class 4 down climb right. Straight between bolts 1&2 felt like 11a. Oct 26, 2013
Excellent rock quality! A #1 Camalot protects the move to the first bolt. Heady getting to the second bolt, but some small gear behind a marginal flake provides some mental pro for the move. Dec 23, 2012
Bob Gaines
  5.10d
Bob Gaines  
  5.10d
At the first bolt, instead of climbing straight up the slab (10+), you can also traverse right, then up (5.10-) for an easier variation to reach the second bolt. After clipping the second bolt, move down a few feet, then move left at a horizontal seam (5.10b/c, height dependent) to reach a fin of rock that is liebacked to easier climbing and the rap slings. Rap 90 ft.

This route has some of the best rock in Indian Cove campground. Apr 19, 2010