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Routes in Fraggle Rock

Cosmic Trigger S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
I Have The Touch S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jolly Roger S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Petrodynamics (aka Gigantor) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Poppin' and Breakin' S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Prozac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Scattered Remains T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sensory Deprivation S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Stairway to Kevin T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Still, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tiers for Fears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Wuthering Heights T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas and Diana Leach, 1985
Page Views: 847 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This excellent three-tiered hand crack in found in the center of the west face of Fraggle Rock and is well worth the (somewhat) lengthy approach. The climb finishes directly via some run-out face climbing but a better protected "escape" (5.10b) can be made by cutting right at an obvious break.

Fun, well-protected climbing in an area that is seldom visited by others is a bonus to this route as are the many other worthwhile climbs nearby.

When visiting please be sure to leave the area as nice as you found it, if not nicer, and respect the nearby artifacts and curios from another era.

Protection

Pro to 3"

Photos

Mark J Gain  
 
This was a favotite of mine as warm up to what I was really there for, although have not been on it since 1998-1999, prior to getting on "I have (had) the touch" and Cosmic. I just feel at home there... Such a nice setting! and great climbs with no-one around, like the .10 on the side of the pillar, soooo much fun, gosh, I gotta get back, if not just to cuise and hang in the cabin below :) What made it "had" the touch anyways? (I heard a flake or sumting broke) I thought it was hard in the 90's, is it worth going back to? Wish Vern could comment :( Apr 24, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
 
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
 
Cutting right seemed intuitive to me. I really enjoyed this route. Be sure to bring a number four camalot or equivalent for the upper section. Apr 7, 2008
That explains the 5.10d rating; I hadn't been on a Vaino Kodas route that was soft. Any history on Scattered Remains? Apr 16, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
On the first ascent Vaino finished straight up instead of finishing right as indicated in the guidebook photo. This makes the climb a bit sporty, as protection is sparse at the top after the crack ends. Apr 16, 2003