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Diabetics

5.4, Trad, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 1.9 from 84 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > Belle Campgroun… > Belle Campground > Castle Rock > Castle Rock - N Side
Warning Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.

Protection

Take the large end of a standard rack, including hexes and cams. Medium sizes pieces could assist with the building of the belay up top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Diabetics
[Hide Photo] Diabetics
A fun solo
[Hide Photo] A fun solo
Erin Cohen handjamming
[Hide Photo] Erin Cohen handjamming
Diabetics<br>
[Hide Photo] Diabetics
Diabetics, 5.4
[Hide Photo] Diabetics, 5.4

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] not bad, a little runout at top Nov 26, 2007
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Fun little climb! Mostly good description above. We climbed the face just right of the crack which allows you to pro the crack. There is a good small nut placement in the 'runout' section toward the top. Agree the down-climb is low 5th, so I lowered my novice partner before down climbing Mar 18, 2016
Wesley K
Southern California
 
[Hide Comment] Runout at the top, but you can sling a large chickenhead to calm the nerves. Not ideal for the new leader. Apr 15, 2019