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Diabetics
5.4,
Trad, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 1.9 from 84
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Belle Campgroun…
> Belle Campground
> Castle Rock
> Castle Rock - N Side
Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Details
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.
Protection
Take the large end of a standard rack, including hexes and cams. Medium sizes pieces could assist with the building of the belay up top.
Bellingham, WA
Southern California