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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Belle Campgroun…
> Belle Campground
> Castle Rock
> Castle Rock - N Side
Diabetics
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 1.9 from 84
votes
Routes in Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Belle-E-Up T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Junction Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,091 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Details
Any route or boulder problem that starts out of or near an occupied campsite may not be done without first obtaining the campsite occupant's permission.
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.
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