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Routes in Castle Rock - North Side

Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Junction Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X
Two Point Crack T 5.1 2 6 II 7 MD 2a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,592 total · 9/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 12, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details


This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.


Take the large end of a standard rack, including hexes and cams. Medium sizes pieces could assist with the building of the belay up top.


not bad, a little runout at top Nov 26, 2007
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
Fun little climb! Mostly good description above. We climbed the face just right of the crack which allows you to pro the crack. There is a good small nut placement in the 'runout' section toward the top. Agree the down-climb is low 5th, so I lowered my novice partner before down climbing Mar 18, 2016

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