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Diabetics
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British
Avg: 1.9 from 88
votes
Routes in Castle Rock - North Side
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Bella Lugosi T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Belle-E-Up T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Belly Dancer T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Bride of Frankenstein TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Chimney Sweep T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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Count Dracula T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Diabetics T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Diagnostics T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Ground Finale T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Half Crack T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Junction Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Love at First Bite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Music Box T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Point Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Rackless Abandon T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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That Old Soft Shoe T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Transylvania Twist T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b X |
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Two Point Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0017, -116.0203 |
| FA: | Todd Swain |
| Page Views: | 3,245 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Apr 12, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect!
Details
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route ascends the lower angle section of the Northwest Face, just visible from the picnic table there. This is right of Count Dracula and just right of Diagnostics. The climb goes up a few face moves to reach a juggy wide crack (hands to OW) that appears to protect well with hexes or large cams. The crack stops before the climb tops out, leaving the leader with a little space between them and their last piece to finish on the top of the big flake. Belay on gear at the big flake before climbing up and to the right, then down the standard downclimb.I do not feel that this is that great of a climb for ultra-beginners. Despite the easy grade, the anchor situation is not straight forward, being in a lateral crack above the flake, running side-to-side and opening up downward... A down-climb is the standard descent which may be mellow for most, but not a 5.4 climber.
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