Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Rock-a-Lot

5.7, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 173 votes
FA: Keith Cunning, 1979
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Rock Garden Valley > Rock Garden Valley -…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This climb ascends the left hand edge of the "shorter wall" of Rock Garden Valley that holds the more spectacular lines of Double Dogleg and Split Personality. Still the line does see some traffic and deservedly so. It is a nice and largely juggy warm up. It should be noted that "Shorter Wall" is a relative term and that the perhaps mis-named 'shorter wall' is taller than many of the walls at J-tree, with most of the lines being about 100' or so.

Start in the left hand side of the buttress, stemming a move or two up an A-shaped overhanging dihedral to a good horizontal, then heave up into a crack. Climb the crack up and to the top, passing a wide section about 1/2 way up. The climb may not be appropriate for nervous or beginning leaders unless you take some OW protection.

Up top, place a directional and head for the bolt anchors of Rock Candy (up and right) to belay. Rap with a 60M+ rope to descend.

Protection

This climb is reasonably well protected provided you take a big piece or two. A 4.5 Camalot could be used with a #4 to Sew it up, but with just a single #4 the lead is also 'reasonable'. For climbers solid at the grade, I think most will be comfortable with no wide gear at all, as the route is not very insecure.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nelson Leading Rock-A-Lot
[Hide Photo] Nelson Leading Rock-A-Lot
Rock a lot. Fine line.  Photo: Dave Rockwell.
[Hide Photo] Rock a lot. Fine line. Photo: Dave Rockwell.
Jill cranking through the start, for the well-earned onsight.  Mar 2016.
[Hide Photo] Jill cranking through the start, for the well-earned onsight. Mar 2016.
Getting some gear on Rock-a-Lot.
[Hide Photo] Getting some gear on Rock-a-Lot.
Finishing up
[Hide Photo] Finishing up
Ample face holds make this pretty mellow
[Hide Photo] Ample face holds make this pretty mellow
Getting ready to clean Rock-a-Lot
[Hide Photo] Getting ready to clean Rock-a-Lot
A fun climb with zero offwidth technique needed.
[Hide Photo] A fun climb with zero offwidth technique needed.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] A person learning to lead should not make this his/her first 5.7. The start may be a bit too much. Either way, whoever leads should place bomber pro to protect the start. It's technically easy; but if you blow it, you may be on a feeding tube forever and ever. May 20, 2004
[Hide Comment] I'm surprised this one doesn't get climbed more often. The crack is great but it has a stiff start! You just have to suck it up and do the first two or three moves. I sort of chimneyed my way up the left side till I could move over. Bring lots of big gear, I recommend doubles of cams 2,3,4. Overall a very good climb. Apr 7, 2005
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I agree with Larry. This route is a lot of fun, and I personally enjoyed it more than double dogleg. I don't think you need much big gear since the off-width section is short and easy, but a #4 camelot should do fine. Lots in the #2 range though is helpful throughout. May 22, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] You can stem around the off-width portion easily on this route. Good fun.

The guidebook says "lots of shade". From the pictures, you can tell this is NOT the case. The wall gets shade in the afternoon. Apr 24, 2012
[Hide Comment] Fully shaded mid-morning this past weekend. Oct 29, 2012
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] the upper and lower Rock Garden Valley (Shorter) walls are all NE facing, ie, shady most of the day. the sun does arc across the sky a lil differently in the summer than in the winter, that these walls get morning sun for longer in the summer than in the winter Mar 5, 2016
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
[Hide Comment] The start is well protected with bomber .5 BD. Easier than I expected. The rock and jams were fantastic but with JT uncharacteristic juggy face holds. Sewed up well with yellow, red and blue hexes. Oct 17, 2016
Patrick Beeson
Portland, OR
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed the bouldery start, which is easily protected off the ground by a stemming move. Higher-up the wider, run-out sections provide quite a thrill, especially if you don't bring a lot of larger pro (oops). Feb 6, 2018
Matthew R
Fresno
 
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was dope and I would recommend it for a warmup or newer leaders. Very secure romp Nov 26, 2020
costco hotdog
St. George
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Fun route, I enjoyed this more than Double Dogleg. No rap rings on the closest anchor, have to go over to Split Personality. A #4 fits nicely higher up in the off-width, or even a #3 works at the top. The first piece ain't gonna do anything other than help you mentally, but the moves are solid if you chimney/stem up then traverse over. Feb 6, 2021