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Hermanutic
5.10c R,
Trad, 50 ft (15 m),
Avg: 2.2 from 17
votes
FA: unknown
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> Trashcan Rock
> Trashcan Rock - E Face
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This crack, just to the left of
Butterfly Crack (5.11c), begins with a bulge. Good stances above the bulge make gear placement relatively easy until the dihedral crux section. The crux is very difficult to protect because the crack becomes very shallow. However, the rock is solid and edges are numerous on both sides of the dihedral. Above the crux the crack widens to 2" and takes bomber cam placements. A serious lead on excellent rock (3 out of 5 stars).
Protection
Small to medium stoppers and small TCU's to 2" cams protect this crack of varying width and depth. Large cams make a solid anchor at the top. An easy walkoff can be found on the west face or north end of the rock.
[Hide Photo] Rodger bouldering the start of Hermanutic, Spring 1982. Note the RR Verappes!
[Hide Photo] Quinlan getting ready to arrest a fall.