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Routes in Saddle Rocks - Skirt (North Face)

I Smell a Rat T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Raging Bull Dike S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Space Mountain T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unicorner, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Evans, Todd Gordon, Marge Floyd, Jim Angione & Radim Bedin, April 1991
Page Views: 647 total, 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Apr 10, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the featured vertical face that lies directly below the rap for Saddle Rocks. Climb up onto a flake then ascend the fun face above on postive holds ending on a large ledge. Not quite a sport climb but still adequately protected.

Protection

6 bolts, bolted anchor/rap on the large ledge above

Photos

mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
Somewhat dubious bolts, rusty and second or third bolt hanger is loose. I placed a couple stoppers behind a semi loose flake and alligator plating at the top of the arete before moving right to the rap anchor. Not bomber placements due to rock quality.

Somewhat friable holds, wondering if a foot hold broke off. There is a spot where something obviously used to be there but is no longer. Nov 22, 2012
Fun climbing, but the last (6th?) bolt way out left seems really forced, and you have to climb through some dubious rock to get there. One can easily "escape" straight up the face/blunt arete past the fifth(?) bolt, slightly runout going this way. Mar 26, 2012