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Routes in Rock 1

Piece of Cake S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Short Cake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Short Flake T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: R. Kyle Horst and Larry DeAngelo, December 1979
Page Views: 743 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Apr 5, 2003
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details


Rock is coarse, but of decent quality. the best feature of the route are the hand jams. This route is the crack that is to the right of the prominent dike.


Crack takes good gear. take a #4 camalot. two bolt anchor.


C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Do this route prior to doing Short Cake and it will make that route a bit more enjoyable. Zero stars out of five. Feb 10, 2004
Jon Leicht
Jon Leicht  
ouch, i would not give it a bomb - easy beginner crack lead with some nice characteristics, by no means a classic, but we thought it a "fun" route

Did not need a #4 plenty of places for smaller cams, .75 - 2, even good spots for hexes etc Apr 23, 2007
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
Definitely coarse, but definitely do-able if your jumping from one shady crack to the next and you over doing the great stuff on castle rock you might as well walk over and grab this one too. Sep 4, 2010
Rodger Raubach  
Just barely an O.K. route, but not really worth the effort. Inside of crack was pretty crumbly. I called it a "bomb." Mar 10, 2011
Buddy Nielsen
Flagstaff, AZ
Buddy Nielsen   Flagstaff, AZ
Rock isn't great by any means but its not a bad lead for someone new looking to work on their crack skills. Bolts at the top and another set of bolts to rap off. Jan 15, 2017

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