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Routes in Suicide Horn Rock

Bighorn Dihedral T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Compact Physical T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Randy Leavitt & Mike Geller, 1985
Page Views: 338 total, 2/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Apr 4, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This short route is on the west face of the summit block of the Suicide Horn Rock formation. The best approach is to climb the appealing Bighorn Dihedral (5.10b) then scramble up and to the left (4th class).

Although the route is short, the climbing is sustained and technical. The difficulty is contingent on the climber's finger width; the thinner the fingers the easier the grade (perhaps as easy as 5.11a).

Protection

This very thin crack with parallel sides is well protected with #00 - #1 TCU's or equivalent Aliens. Small to medium cams are sufficient for an anchor.

Photos

Randy
  5.11a
Randy  
  5.11a
Crack is nice, but the face (where your feet go) is a bit loose. If it got climbed more, it would clean up ok. Kinda short though. Apr 7, 2003