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Routes in Pac Man Rock

Flakes of Grasp T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Marathon Crack, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ship Wrecked V6 7A
Wind Sprint T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas & Tony Yaniro, 1981
Page Views: 100 total, 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A balancy start in a thin crack/seam that's mostly tips gives way to actual fingerlocks higher as the angle steepens. The climb though short is demanding and requires good technique and a cool head to succeed. Two stars out of five only because it's not longer.

Location

The west face of Pac Man Rock is home to this short but striking splitter that slashes it's way up a steep, featureless slab.

Protection

Gear to 1" (pro to 2.5" for anchor)

Photos

Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Two distinct cruxes for avg height climbers, one just short of midway and one at the very top turning onto the slabby finish. A couple of good fingerlocks get you off the ground, then it's long reaches between flaring tips openings and lieback edges until it opens up in a couple spots in the upper half. Take multiple small stoppers smaller than tips and concentrate cams in the black alien/00tcu/purple C3 size, along with singles of the next three sizes up. There are only one or two openings large enough for typical "finger" sized cams, i.e. yellow tcu/alien, and you'll probably skip placing gear in them since you need to crank on them. Perhaps only 25' of real climbing, the final 15' is very low angle. Dec 12, 2010