Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Castle Rock - South Side

Belly Flop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bonnie Brae T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bonny's Boo-Boo T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Bubba's Tourist Trap T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sand In My Shoes (aka Drill Dust) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Strange Attractor, The T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
True Grit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yucca Bowl T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,080 total, 6/month
Shared By: Steve Powell on Mar 20, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Occupied Campsite Rule In Effect! Details

Description

This route is to the right of Yucca Bowl. Start at a left leaning crack, step right over the crack and into a bowl. Head straight up to a right leaning crack. Pass the crack and head straight up the slab to the top.

Protection

small stoppers, 2 bolts for pro. small/medium gear for anchor. [The 2 protection bolts were replaced 4/00 by the ASCA. -ed.]

Photos

Canon
  5.7
Canon  
  5.7
I think I placed a #1 TCU before the first bolt, and something between the last bolt and the top. Decent climb if in the area. Nov 17, 2012
Rodger Raubach  
  5.7
Since we were in the campsite right below the route...why not climb it/ We did, 3x on one trip, just for grins... Pleasant, but not outstanding. Mar 8, 2011
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
I think it's a fun route, but not as good as the ones on the other side of the rock. Sep 15, 2006
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I think I remember Chris calling that "chasing the grain". Mar 21, 2003
Murf  
Yes, plenty of unremarkable, and then there is the choss. As I always say, to be a Josh local takes skill, time, and an enthusiam for choss( mostly 'cause I'm far away from being a local ). Mar 21, 2003
I haven't climbed this route but I agree that there are many many unremarkable routes. It's good to know what and where they are, obviously, as well as the bombs. It's important to know what's been climbed and by who, and to know the difference between unremarkable and lousy. But in Joshua Tree, with somewhere between 4000 and 6000 routes climbed and available, I (and just about everyone I know) uses the guidebook to plan which crags/formations to go investigate based on starred routes that appeal and are in the appropriate route range for one's lead abilities, then go check it out and then wander around the area identifying the other routes and doing what appeals. For this system to work there cannot be 3000 routes with 2-4 stars, obviously, which is I think what Randy and Chris are getting at with the profusion of 2-3 star routes on this site that probably aren't. The idea isn't to have a Bell curve of every route from 1-3 (or 1-5 for Randy) stars. The idea is to have most routes be 0 or 1 stars and the really great climbs be 2 stars (or 3 or 4 for Randy) and the true classics - stuff that people who have never been to jtree will here about - be the 3 (or 5) star routes - like Illusion Dweller, Figures on a Landscape, Father Figure, Double Cross, Gunsmoke, Left Ski Track, More Monkey Than Funky, Mental Physics, etc... Mar 21, 2003
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
and there are many...aren't there? Mar 20, 2003
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Another unremarkable climb. Mar 20, 2003