Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: John Bachar, 1976
Page Views: 17,966 total · 74/month
Shared By: Josh Beck on Nov 7, 2002
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest

You & This Route


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Access Issue: NEW RESTRICTIONS Details

Description

This is a simply spectacular route! A 3rd class slab leads directly to the roof. 15' or slightly more of sinker horizontal hand jamming (assuming average sized men's hands) lead to desperate super tight hands jamming around the lip. Once above the lip a tricky though not terribly difficult move or two and a last thin piece of gear are best dispatched before the pump clock catches up with you!

 Best led with one rope - clip your first piece or two with slings and don't blow it. At the lip place a piece or two and fire around the corner. Once established above the roof make sure to route the rope through a little groove/slot approximately 6" left of the crack - this will prevent your gear from walking deep into the crack (cams are fixed on this route reasonably frequently) or the rope from hanging on a cam before you get to the anchor.

Protection

A couple of hand sized pieces, one each 1-2" and a selection of thin pieces for the last placement or two. Bolted belay/rappel.

Photos