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Seizure
5.12d,
Trad, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 2.9 from 12
votes
FA: Kris Solem and Charles Crist, October 1988
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Split Rocks
> Split Rocks West
> Rubicon Formation
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb the initial crack on Rubicon, but continue up it past the horizontal about 10 feet or so. Head out left and up to a bolt, then head up and a bit left past 4 more bolts finishing at the rap anchor on top.
Steep, technical, well protected face with a real crux move between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
Note, the route line and bolts shown in the 1992 guide (and the crag photo on this site) are incorrect. The actual line lies further left and angles left more. 1st bolt is about 15+ feet above the horizontal.
Protection
5 bolts and maybe a 2 to 3 inch piece to protect getting to 1st bolt (you can then clean it).
Monrovia, CA
We worked the line on TR, not wanting to bolt until we knew we could do it cleanly. The first 4 bolts went in ground up from hooks, and from the 4th I led to the top (big runout,) being unable to stop and drill along the way. I got some pro in the top of Rubicon and lowered back down and placed the 5th bolt right then at the insistence of my partner, Charlie Crist. A close look will reveal an empty hole somewhere right of the 3rd bolt. this was the original location but after getting the rope behind my feet for a couple falls I moved it. Shortly after the FA the route was chopped by someone who was extremely upset with me in a personal matter, and after things cooled off I placed the bolts which are there now. Jan 4, 2006
Joshua Tree
Nice line, wish I could climb harder! Nov 29, 2007
Monrovia, CA
Yes. And after he did it he told me that he had done a number of easier 13's...
Erik Erikson did the third - I belayed him on it. He said he thought it was harder than Games Without Frontiers. I tend to agree, although height is a factor on both of these routes.
hmm.
edit: As I recall, Erik did not suggest upgrading Seizure, but rather downgrading Games... Dec 1, 2008
Joshua Tree, CA
San Diego, CA