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Seizure

5.12d, Trad, 85 ft (26 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
FA: Kris Solem and Charles Crist, October 1988
California > Joshua Tree NP > Pinto Basin > Split Rocks > Split Rocks West > Rubicon Formation
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Description

Climb the initial crack on Rubicon, but continue up it past the horizontal about 10 feet or so. Head out left and up to a bolt, then head up and a bit left past 4 more bolts finishing at the rap anchor on top.

Steep, technical, well protected face with a real crux move between the 3rd and 4th bolts.

Note, the route line and bolts shown in the 1992 guide (and the crag photo on this site) are incorrect. The actual line lies further left and angles left more. 1st bolt is about 15+ feet above the horizontal.

Protection

5 bolts and maybe a 2 to 3 inch piece to protect getting to 1st bolt (you can then clean it).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nailzzzz hard. TR hero
[Hide Photo] Nailzzzz hard. TR hero
Brett early on the route.
[Hide Photo] Brett early on the route.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] Mike, it's nice to see someone climbing on that route. A few notes about the FA:

We worked the line on TR, not wanting to bolt until we knew we could do it cleanly. The first 4 bolts went in ground up from hooks, and from the 4th I led to the top (big runout,) being unable to stop and drill along the way. I got some pro in the top of Rubicon and lowered back down and placed the 5th bolt right then at the insistence of my partner, Charlie Crist. A close look will reveal an empty hole somewhere right of the 3rd bolt. this was the original location but after getting the rope behind my feet for a couple falls I moved it. Shortly after the FA the route was chopped by someone who was extremely upset with me in a personal matter, and after things cooled off I placed the bolts which are there now. Jan 4, 2006
[Hide Comment] John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure Nov 29, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
[Hide Comment] "Shortly after the FA the route was chopped" local urban legend is that was the least of the problem. Kris runs a nice story along with putting up that route and what occurred thereafter.

Nice line, wish I could climb harder! Nov 29, 2007
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] " ATS wrote...John Burcaw did the 2nd ascent of Seizure... "

Yes. And after he did it he told me that he had done a number of easier 13's...

Erik Erikson did the third - I belayed him on it. He said he thought it was harder than Games Without Frontiers. I tend to agree, although height is a factor on both of these routes.

hmm.

edit: As I recall, Erik did not suggest upgrading Seizure, but rather downgrading Games... Dec 1, 2008
Drewsky
 
[Hide Comment] I used to think this one was impossible until I successfully thrutched my way up it on toprope. I would say the crux is certainly a touch harder than Games Without Frontiers; I was able to redpoint that one but the lead on Seizure remains elusive. Both routes require a peculiar combination of finesse and brute force. Great route! Dec 20, 2008
RTM
[Hide Comment] Cool line! I found one section to be too reachy for me though. Mar 27, 2009
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
[Hide Comment] Super sharp holds. Painful on TR. Don't slip or you will lose skin... Mar 11, 2015
Josh Higgins
San Diego, CA
  5.12c/d
[Hide Comment] I worked this route for days while a friend was working on leading Rubicon. I would belay him, clean it, then TR Seizure. It took me three days to figure out the crux move. The hold was so small that it didn't even occur to me to try pulling on it, or maybe I couldn't even see it? It was a micro sidepull in one of the eroded shallow holes if I remember right. Next time he tried to lead Rubicon, I led Seizure. What a desperate ride it was! I got it clean on lead on the first lead attempt and never took any falls. I think it was one of the more enjoyable thin hard routes I ever climbed. Putting the puzzle pieces together was amazing. Nice work on the FA Kris! And thanks for putting that 5th bolt in for us mortals. Apr 26, 2021