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Routes in Dairy Queen Wall - Left Side

Brazier Food T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Chili Dog T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Double Delight T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Faith Healer T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Five Tree T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Foot Massage, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Get Right or Get Left (aka Addams Family) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gomez T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Leap Erickson T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Leap Year Flake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Leap of Faith T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Look Before You Leap T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Lurch T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mojus (aka Slushie), The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Morticia T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Norm S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pat Adams Dihedral T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Pugsley S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Snake Oil T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Tabby Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tofutti T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Toxic Waltz T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Wednesday's Child T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Pat Adams, 1979
Page Views: 4,256 total · 21/month
Shared By: Steve Juhasz on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is another neglected classic which is found on the left side of the Dairy Queen Wall. Once at the base of the cliff climb the excellent Leap Year Flake or Leap Erickson as an approach pitch. Once atop these routes you'll be under a large overhang capping a right facing corner which is the route.

The undercling/layback just off the start is the crux, and after the first 30 feet of climbing, you have to go up and around the roof which is easier, but a bit scary. An excellent stopper placement is here. Excellent rock and convenient rap anchor. Toproping is out of the question due to the huge rope drag; someone will have to second the leader to clean the gear. Pulling the rope after the rap is a bit tricky, pull to the far left.

Protection

Small to medium cams, one large stopper is really helpful on the slabby part of the crack above roof.

Photos

Murf
  5.11d PG13
Murf  
  5.11d PG13
Huh - I must have missed the rap anchor at the top last weekend. Are you talking about the anchor on the slab route to the right ( not on the top of PA )? Fixed purple tcu, way jacked up.

2007 edit - Fixed TCU still there, only in Josh is this .11b. I'd say .11+ for leaders placing gear. With this route if you pull one piece, you could ground. Mar 14, 2003
To the left of Leap Year Flake (5.7) is a fun bolted slab / face (7 bolts) that can be climbed to access PA's Dihedral. I assume this is Leap Erickson (10a/b), formerly a top rope. May 25, 2003
I thought placing gear was the crux on this one. Strenuous laybacking with glass for feet. So good!! Aug 12, 2004
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
aka 'The Murf Rejector' and possibly 'Murf Quits' in the future. Mar 27, 2009
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
I heard something about this thing being "Murf Proof" so I decided not to freesolo it today. Jul 21, 2013

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