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Routes in Grand Canyon - West Wall (W. Face)

For Paul S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
For Peter T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Wrath Of St. Valentine, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger 10/87
Page Views: 884 total, 5/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Jan 18, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb easy face to a horizontal dike. Follow the dike left using heel hooks and hand holds to a strenuous mantle. Continue up past two bolts on thin face to the top.

I believe [the "R" rating] is justified because if you come off while doing the difficult mantle just under the 5th bolt (10 feet directly left of the 4th bolt) you will take a nasty pendulum and the rope may hit a sharp edge on a portion of the discontinuous dike.

Protection

6 bolts (all 3/8"), pro to 3" for anchors.

All 6 bolts were replaced 2/11/01 by the ASCA.

Location

Located directly across from the Rubicon Formation.

Photos

john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
For Peter Herbine, killed by drunk driver on the way to climb at JT on Hwy 395 near Atolia. Laurie Leach and Mike Dorey were both ejected from the VW bus and survived, late 1980's. May 2, 2010
Souljah
Northern NM
  5.11c
Souljah   Northern NM
  5.11c
Watched a climber pitch from the mantle around 89/90. All air with a fair amount of pendulum action before his belayer finally lowered him off.

We went next and I distinctly remember a period of contemplation before initiating the facey exit (as per Drewsky - not a good fall) , but I wouldn't underestimate that mantle either - powerful and teetery as I recall.

Excellent route for a solid leader at the grade.

Jan 25, 2010
Drewsky
 
Drewsky  
 
This climb should not be missed, but beware the fall from the upper face: I think it's possible to land on the dike where it sticks out the most. The dike is also sharp in places. Feb 10, 2008
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
This climb was also known as "Crystal City Underground". Apr 4, 2003