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Routes in The Red Obelisk

Red Obelisk (aka Boogers on a Lampshade), The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Red Obelisk Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Dave Evans and Marge Floyd, 1985
Page Views: 758 total, 4/month
Shared By: Craig Clarence on Mar 8, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route climbs the right side of the west face of the Obelisk (it's the dashed line in the picture). A nice fat bolt has taken the place of a nest of knifeblades which once protected the crux. The start is a bit bouldery, with an unprotected mantel onto a sloping ledge, but it's not too hard.

The route ends with typical grainy Josh slab, and I was happy I took the time to sling the chickenhead above the 2nd bolt.

Short route, fun moves - definitely worth doing.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8"). A sling for a chickenhead is very helpful as well.

Photos

Bo Johnston  
 
The crux at the first bolt is stiff. I'm really glad there is a bolt there now. Making that move with a piton in that seam with serious fall potential would have put my tail between my legs... I wouldn't want to reverse the mantle move either! Oct 19, 2006
Murf  
Graham - Crop out the Belayer and center a bit and I think you'd have a 3 * shot! Nov 7, 2005
Ryan Avery  
 
I enjoyed this one. A way better lead for the expereince I think, but then I have only led it. Like mentioned above its a bit interesting stepping off the ledge into the crux. Definitely worth the hike.

Bring a couple quickdraws and a sling for the chicken head. Thats all you need so its a light and fast one. Apr 4, 2005
We did a Needles rappel on the FA. I sagged off one side while Margy rapped the other, then she tied off the rope and I rapped my side. May 15, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
I agree; worth doing. Quite a nervy move stepping off the ledge and laying up past the crux, feels bigger than it is. Rappel off from bolts. Mar 18, 2003