Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Black Rocks

1B1RP T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freriks Is A Daddy T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
My President Is Addicted To War T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Opportunist, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Preying Mantles T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: David Evans, Margy Floyd
Page Views: 295 total · 2/month
Shared By: David Evans on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Although the rock at the bottom is not very good it gets better and better. Tie off the thread and start liebacking and side-pulling on up. This route is a lot like "Wired", technical with thin pro, but longer.

Protection

This route needs only a selection of wired stoppers, RP's and small cams (up to 2 ") as well as a sling to tie off the thread at the start. Tie off boulders on top for the belay anchor.

Photos

Isaac T.
Yokosuka, Japan
 
Isaac T.   Yokosuka, Japan
 
I don't think this is Unnamed 10c as the guide book describes the route "on the lefthand cliff, near the right side." It also mentions a bolt, a seam, and a hand traverse all of which are non-existant on this route. When I did it (1-3-09) I graded the route 5.7+ (not 10c not even close) my money is on Ranking Carl or Miller and Fitzhugh getting a FA.

It was a bit of a rope stretcher about 28 meters or so with fun climbing on bomber rock. You pull 2 bulges on big chicken heads and a bit of stemming down lower (by the tree/shrub) Jan 4, 2009
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
I believe this is the same route listed in the '92 Vogel guide as Unnamed 5.10c (#2241). Mar 18, 2003
David Evans  
 
In the picture of the cliff you can see Chris Miller (following) and Nathan Fitzhugh on on the right side of the cliff. This was either a First Ascent or possibly the line of "Ranking Carl" (a rare and esoteric 5.8). Picture taken on 3/2/03. Mar 6, 2003