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Routes in West Tiers

Blood and Cuts T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Henrietta's Day Spa T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Hot Dog in a Bun T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lee's Health Studio (aka The Dehab Clinic) T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prefab Sprout T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slots A Fun T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smart Missile T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Who Cut The Cheese? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Wide Receiver T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alan Nelson and Alan Patey 12/81
Page Views: 128 total, 1/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Feb 22, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route, located on the lower tier approximately 125' south of a bolted waterchute (Hot Dog in a Bun), ascends a sustained vertical finger to hand / fist crack. As the route name implies, there are some jagged edges in the crack but the rock quality is good.

Protection

This climb protects well with small to medium sized cams and medium stoppers. Medium sized cams are needed for an anchor.

Photos

Disagree, 5.9 is accurate IMHO. Jan 2, 2013
A worthy tick if in the area. A single set of cams from fingers to #3 camalot is plenty if you're comfortable on 5.9 hands. Low crux pulling over the initial bulge. Sling a boulder up top for an anchor. Walk-off to climbers right. Nov 19, 2012
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
  5.10a
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
  5.10a
Great route! I enjoyed the tweaky jams down low cause they allow you to really appreciate the bomber jams above. Fairly sustained. Nov 20, 2010
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
 
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
 
Agreed. This is one of the coolest finger/hand cracks in JT... sustained nature keeps it interesting all the way. Apr 7, 2009
TimM
  5.10a
TimM  
  5.10a
Very fun and nice to have as an easily accessible straight-in crack to run laps on.

5.10a for sure. Jan 25, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.9+
C Miller   CA  
  5.9+
Decent climbing for the area...most of the cracks tend to be a bit sharp anyways being so close to Jumbo Rocks. Nov 11, 2003
Oh' it's 10a. I thought it was the F18's that made it hard. Led it many years ago and right at the crux two USMC F18's made a low, (300ft or so) pass up the canyon. Got so griped I fell off! Jul 24, 2003
Murf
5.10a
Murf  
5.10a
I second the .10a, stiff and sustained for 5.9. Feb 26, 2003
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
Do not be put off by the name. We were surprised at how good this route is; it looks like the classic Josh grain-fest. Instead, the inside of the crack is water polished (though it still has crystals). It also seems pretty stiff for 5.9 (I'd say 10a). It will have 2 stars (out of 5) in the new guide (Vol. 2). Feb 25, 2003