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Routes in Solosby Wall

Bebop Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Latin Swing T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Slam Dance T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solosby T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: (TR) John Bachar, John Yablonksi & Mike Lechlinski 1979, FL: Paul Borne 1990
Page Views: 3,503 total, 18/month
Shared By: Scotty Nelson on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Unusual for J-tree: a steep juggy sport climb! It is located in a shady corridor so it could be either chilly or perfect, depending on the temps.

Protection

Five bolts.
Dustin Stephens
  5.11a
Dustin Stephens  
  5.11a
Good climbing, but multiple opportunities for bone-crushing falls onto the boulder behind if you biff it at the wrong moment. Would not recommend to those breaking into the grade. Mar 19, 2017
G Halsne
  5.11b
G Halsne  
  5.11b
Love this climb! Visited it 2 years ago and just came back for more as it haunted my climbing dreams! ( wow im lame) Anyway.. The lower part reminds me of Rolling Blackout and Katmandu at Malibu, for the hueco seeker above.. The move from the rail to the upper pocket feels so amazingly powerful if you can stick it static... ( im over 6ft ) and the rest just gets harder after the pump. I found myself wishing the anchors were 12 inches lower... since pulling the mantle ( on lead) is pretty sketchy... But after making the move it won my respect in a big way. Interesting to read the history of the anchors after the fact. I give this a hard 11b grade anywhere else in socal... but for Josh.. I guess its just 11a ! :) Apr 20, 2014
Colin Brochard
San Francisco
Colin Brochard   San Francisco
legit climb, I was a little two beat up and whiney from a few days of warm josh to fully enjoy it. The huecoy goodness at the bottom has to be some of the coolest granite sculpture around. Does anyone know any area's with similar uber huecoed varnish? even outside josh? Jan 31, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
This had the first dyno I ever did on lead, from the handrail to the pocket - and amazingly I stuck it! Oct 5, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11a
The steep nature of this route makes for pumpy climbing. The start is not 5.6 or 5.7 as previously described. The start is certainly not the crux but does have your attention getting off the deck and a missed sequence is not fun. Once established in the large pockets reaching the first bolt is easy enough. If you don't like the fall factor you could bridge using the boulder behind you to clip the first bolt.

Reachy and powerful moves at the mid-way crux (bulge) as a 5'7" girl I either need more power or....more power. I hung.

In full disclosure we did the route on TR and I still hung. Even still, I feel comfortable with my grade assessment of 11a.
~Susan

Conditions: Summer months - in the shade @ noon May 31, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
I think Bachar did the FA on this Dec 21, 2004
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
I remember back in '94, when our group was hanging with a couple of Euros who were not having the greatest time with runout slabs. I told them, "I think I have something in mind for you..." Yea, they loved it. Both of them led BT and LS a few times and were having such a fine afternoon with it, they bought me all the cheap beer and cigaretts I could handle.....Personally, I TR'd them several times (BT AND LS) before yoyoing my way up. Fun times on a fun, unique routes. Jul 28, 2004
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
Regarding the approach: From the Nature Loop, walk SW towards a 50' tall overhanging orange colored boulder with a pinon pine at the base. Walk around to the right, aiming left of the "finger" on the skyline. Boulder hop up and left, towards another large boulder w/ a thin crack running through the roof. Shimmy through a cave at the base of this boulder, chimney down the other side, and you will be at the base of the overhanging and pocketed Solosby Face.

Regarding the route: Feels like Hueco Tanks in Joshua Tree! The bolts are spaced just far enough apart to keep you on your toes and it's not a bad idea to have a spot before clipping the first one. Thanks Stephen and company for replacing the old bolts! Oct 23, 2003
Randy  
Steven: Well Done! Thanks for replacing the old anchor.

Now, if I can only find my lycra... Jul 2, 2003
went out and did this yesterday, my first time out there this climb rules, there are actually only four bolts on the climb and we replaced the crappy anchors with some super bomber three eighth's and chains, when we pulled the three old bolts out two of them sheared of with three whacks from the piton and hammer and the other one when we pulled it out was bent all to hell, those were some horrible anchors, but no more now they are custom and every one should enjoy this climb, easy to top rope also. Jul 1, 2003
Tim Bui  
Really fun climb. Don't worry about the first bolt being so far up. I think it is only 5.6 or 5.7 up to it. The climb DOES have for bolts/hangers as of today. There are three old rusted bolts on top. One is without a hanger. May 2, 2003
C Miller
CA
  5.11a
C Miller   CA  
  5.11a
This climb did and should have 4 bolts. The extra bolt at the top is the result of an anchor at the lip being chopped, which is a pity as this is indeed a sport climb. Mar 14, 2003