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Routes in Beaver Boulder

Beaver Boulder Bolt Ladder C1
Lost Lid T A0+
RURP Romp C2 R
Type: Aid, 50 ft
FA: John Wolfe & Howard Weamer, May 1969
Page Views: 894 total · 5/month
Shared By: Eddie Clarke on Feb 4, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located on the west face of Beaver Boulder. 3 fixed heads lead to the first bolt, then a another head and a rivet lead to the second bolt, followed by about 10 more moves off fixed heads. The last 5 or so moves are on micro nuts, RP's are very helpful. Most of the fixed heads seem pretty sketchy and there is a definite potential for a ground fall onto the rock below.

If you do the route solo, your bottom anchor isn't that great, just a cordlette slung around the rock at the bottom, so the best option is to put a add clove hitch on a locker and attach it to the second bolt when you get there.

Protection

As of 2/03 there were 15 fixed heads, so if you should probably bring some along just in case. Micro nuts are needed for the last 15 feet.

Photos

kevin deweese
Oakland, Ca
C3 R
kevin deweese   Oakland, Ca
C3 R
As of 11/2011, all deadheads and all but one fixed head have been stripped from the route. Route can be done clean using camhooks, hooks, handplaced beaks, and offset cams/nuts. Requires one fixed head to start route (there is a bathook hole that can be used, but the bottom is blown out and I was unable with the hooks I had to step above it without it blowing)

Bring some heads and/or beaks if you're not up for a possible groundfall whilst hooking above the last bolt. (But if you're going to nail between the bolt and C1 section, use some beaks, not heads, after all, it's not called Head Romp.) Nov 22, 2011