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Left Sawdust Crack

5.10c, Trad, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 80 votes
FA: unknown
California > Joshua Tree NP > Quail Springs Area > Trashcan Rock > Trashcan Rock - E Face
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Description

Just to the left of Right Sawdust crack, climb the thinner and much more difficult crack, avoiding using Right Sawdust crack at the top where it gets a little cruxy. Not too bad though, just move fast enough to avoid the pump. Would be worth another star if it wasn't so close to Right Sawdust Crack, at the top it could be pretty tempting to use the other crack just 2-3' away.

Protection

Thin to hand sized. Best to have a couple of fist sized pieces for an anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

"Left Sawdust Crack".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Left Sawdust Crack". Photo by Blitzo.
Mark doing a round on Left Sawdust Crack
[Hide Photo] Mark doing a round on Left Sawdust Crack
Fighting my way (or trying to) up Left Sawdust Crack (9/19/20).
[Hide Photo] Fighting my way (or trying to) up Left Sawdust Crack (9/19/20).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] I always thought the ol' "don't use the other crack next to my hand" to make it 5.10 was a little too...gymish. Feb 4, 2003
Josh Beck
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] I agree... I'm generally of the "if I can hit it on the way down or if I can reach it while my other hand is still definitely in the crack / on route, then it's on as well" mindset. They're two different cracks and it's not that hard to avoid the right one at the top and it makes it a bit more difficult, but it is contrived. In the end though it's up to the leader and as long as they have a good time there's no right or wrong. Feb 4, 2003
[Hide Comment] Umm yeah, I just climbed this the other day and it seemed damned contrived not to use the other crack. But I enjoy plenty of much more contrived antics at the gym so, what the heck, why not? Feb 4, 2003
[Hide Comment] I thought this crack was pretty hard at the top (for me), but avoided using the right hand crack except for one move.I thought this was a mucho fun route. Oct 12, 2003
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
[Hide Comment] Use the other crack otherwise it's too contrived. I was leading and was only too glad to grab the right crack near the top. Apr 7, 2008
Rodger Raubach
Billings, MT
  5.10c
[Hide Comment] Gotta move fast on this one, as the submitter said. I was entirely focussed on the crack in front of my nose and ignored the R. Sawdust crack. But...I'm a purist at heart. Nov 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] Super solid moves avoided the right crack cause the west face made a good warm up contrived... Idk big word for an obviously more enjoyable and realistic 10c at the top if you don't use the right crack. Mar 13, 2013
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
[Hide Comment] Led it the first time 40 years ago... threw a top rope on it today: youtube.com/watch?v=cPdT5I4… Apr 1, 2019
Ty Zang
Huntington Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] Oddly fun route! There is a lot of discussion here about using the second crack at the top. In my opinion, avoiding using the 5.8 crack and doing it on a powerful layback is really fun. Who gives a shit about grade and whats "allowed". Try it without that crack, and it adds some spice! This is a new project for me and my bud. Cant wait to eventually get the beta locked in.

For fans of finger cracks and bouldery moves. Jan 2, 2024