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London Calling

5.11c, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 15 votes
FA: Bob Gaines, Todd Gordon & Mark Hoffman, April 1993
California > Joshua Tree NP > Central Joshua… > Echo Rock Area > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - S Face
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This route starts down and right of British Airways. A small cam protects hard moves getting to 1st bolt. The crux move is getting past the 1st bolt (very technical moves - 5.11c). Above 2 more bolts protect face climbing on big plates (a bit loose) up and then left to join British Airways at its 1st bolt. Finish up British Airways (you do the crux of it as well). Would give it only 2 of 5 stars. Rap off.

In the photo, the lower section is hidden by the boulder; crux is reaching over the small roof you can just see.

Protection

5 bolts (2 of which are on British Airways) 3/4" to 1" cam to protect getting to 1st bolt

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

London Calling
[Hide Photo] London Calling
At the Crux. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
[Hide Photo] At the Crux. Copyright 2003, by Randy V.
London Calling
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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

C Miller
CA
  5.11c
[Hide Comment] A fun route which has a short, well-protected crux down low, an easy middle section and another crux at the top. After mantling the flake at the start technical and insecure moves lead out right via improbable smears, liebacking as well as underclinging the roof to reach a nice jug at the second bolt. Above easy (5.9) climbing leads up and left to join British Airways for it's always thrilling finish. Three stars out of five. Jan 22, 2005
[Hide Comment] The 3rd bolt looks as though it has sustained a pretty severe fall. It is partially pulled, and bent pretty significantly.

Extend draws to reduce rope drag while pulling the exit moves of British Airways, or its a unpleasant finish or the British Airways flight.

The bottom is really gritty, but overall a pretty fun route. Oct 25, 2010
Todd Gordon
Joshua Tree, CA
[Hide Comment] Ben H...that bolt was crappy since the day it was placed....it's a 5/16" buttonhead, and it started to bend over when I hammered it in....I planned to fix it someday, but haven't yet.....oops.....it's probably bomber, but it looks funky.... Oct 25, 2010
[Hide Comment] toddgordon, thanks for that info. It actually looks like someone might have mashed that 3rd bolt in a little further recently? I saw it at a distance from British Airways a couple days ago, and it maybe? looks better than it did when I clipped it two weeks ago. Nov 8, 2010
Luke Stefurak
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Has anyone tried linking this into Rule Britannia? Seems like a pretty logical line. Bad rock quality makes the traverse to the right seem problematic. Jan 21, 2014
Bob Gaines
Joshua Tree, CA
 
[Hide Comment] All the original bolts have been replaced with bomber 1/2-inch stainless steel bolts, hardware courtesy of the American Safe Climbing Association. If you'd like to donate to the ASCA, check them out at safeclimbing.org. Jan 12, 2021