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Routes in South Astro Dome - East Face

Hex Marks the Poot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
If You Really Loved Me, You'd Buy Me A Turkey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Let's **** the Crack Whore T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Singularity T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Primal Flake T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strike It Rich T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Dave Evans, 1974
Page Views: 2,790 total, 15/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 17, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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41 Opinions

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Description

Hex Marks the Poot is an incredibly obvious crack (when standing near the Don Juan boulder) on a series of blocks leaning against the South Astro Dome. It is just left of the sheer northeast face of this formation.

Climb up the hand and fist crack past a horizontal rail, and then enter the off-width. Left side in, right side smearing on the face will get you up it. It's very fun but gym rats and posers will complain. Continue to a nice alcove with weird horns to sling and belay, or continue up the second pitch - a pretty right-curving crack (feasible as one pitch with a long sling or two). No fixed anchors that I could find but a rappel is easy with some long webbing around those horns.

The first pitch goes at 5.7 (possibly 5.7+ ?), and the second pitch at 5.8.

Protection

An assortment of hand, fist, and large off-width gear sew up the first pitch. The off-width is fairly secure so if you want to leave behind the 4.5 camalot you can. Smaller gear for the second.
David Vogel
Lake Forest, CA
David Vogel   Lake Forest, CA
Anchor at P1 is safe November 2017. 4-5 slings around a horn. Nov 5, 2017
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.8
Fun 1st pitch. The OW was pretty easy for my girlfriend to lead with a #5 cam tipped out. The short crux was hard for me with my left leg consumed to the hip, right foot too big for toe-heel, quite the grunt for 5.7. The 5.8 fingers is awesome, too short. Definitely do the 3rd pitch, short hard fingers layback. Rap down Breakfast of Champions found at north end( 2 single rope raps. Jan 6, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
If you saw this great splitter from a distance and just had to climb it, despite not having OW technique - you should tape your left ankle. Wish I did. Jan 1, 2014
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
I thought this was a great route, anchors at the top of P1 and P2 are currently safe. I took it to the top per the suggestion of "john durr" on Primal Flake, finished with a nice no hands slab. No anchors at the very top, walked it off to the NW then traversed back around to the south side to our packs. Probably better to bring shoes and rap My Laundry and then walk back to packs from there. Apr 23, 2013
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
I was relatively awkward on my first time leading this, the second time I managed to smooth it out. Two stars, but a must-do one day walking out of the wonderland.

I remember the second pitch being a bit creepy with small gear behind a big hollow flake. Interesting climbing though. Nov 16, 2012
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
Descent Beta:
As of 4/16/11, there was a slung (7mm yellow cord + 5mm blue cord) boulder with a screw link to rap off of. We did, and it held us fine. You may want to bring 12-15ft of webbing to back it up.

Agreed this would be a good candidate for Rap anchors (discreet ones atop P2?) Apr 17, 2011
john durr
Joshua Tree, CA
 
john durr   Joshua Tree, CA
 
The second pitch is a 5.8 right arching finger crack that is very nice - small to medium aliens work great. From the end of the second pitch, you can add a fun third pitch by joining Primal Flake at mid-pitch. Climb the flakes and left slanting undercling roof (5.8+) of Primal Flake then up and right to the summit of So. Astro Dome. Highly recommended. May 11, 2008
Jordan K
Ohio
  5.7+
Jordan K   Ohio
  5.7+
Bottom crack is great. Top off-width is nothing special. I agree... need's achors for the rap. Fun, but certainly not worth the long hike just for this one climb. Worth it if you're there already. Oct 8, 2006
tony grice
  5.8
tony grice  
  5.8
nice route , a must do for the 5.7 star seeker. Needs a rap station at top, no more shitty slings on the wall, or killing the nolinas for rappels Mar 1, 2006
namascar
  5.7
namascar  
  5.7
A very pure line in my opinion. Good hands to fist before the horizontal crack. The rest is a low angle offwidth that protects easyly with a single #5 Cam. Rappel slings at the top, or build an anchor with #2 and #1 Cam. Apr 4, 2005
Dustysdawg
  5.7+
Dustysdawg  
  5.7+
I thought this was a fun climb and I gave it a 5.7+ because of the awkward offwidth. I had one #4 for the OW part, but it was too small. A #5 would be perfect. Once I entered the OW, I was committed and had to run it out to the top. I would recommend this route to anyone in the area looking for something a little different. Dec 5, 2004
I free-soloed this route in 1974 and found a #11 Hexentric at the start of the OW. I assumed that I had done the FA since there were no anchors on top and the downclimb turned out to be as hard as the climb! I figured that the hex marked their bail point (the poot). Jan 23, 2003