Allergy
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0242, -116.1582 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,525 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 26, 2002 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route lies at the left-most margin of the right-most (east) solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and begins just left of Sitting Here In Limbo and Out On A Limb. This is a wide and scaley crack.Climb this curving line using jams and chimney/OW technique where necessary, as the rock quality does not inspire one to step delicately on the available rock. Climb to the crux near the top of the buttress. And pull up and over with gear at your feet (no good pro is to be had above while at the crux)
The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams as for the previosuly mentiened nearby climbs. There are other possibilities too.
To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.



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