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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jeff Rhoads, Kellie Rhoads & Mike Silitch, 1991
Page Views: 2,179 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route lies on the right-most (east) solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge, and begins just left of Out on a Limb and just right of a scaley wide crack.Climb this line of bolts on contoured face to the top of the buttress. The crux is somewhere near the middle of the route and is on small holds.

The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.


5 bolts, gear to 3" for an anchor
Kevin Mokracek
Kevin Mokracek   Burbank
I skipped the first bolt and just slung a horn slightly up and to the left of the first bolt. The first bolt is in kind of a funky spot. Dec 15, 2013
Dave Chapman
So Calif
Dave Chapman   So Calif
Cool route, which never used to have a line considering its well bolted and so close to the road. Very balancy. While your up there toprope the .10c to the right, also a fun one. Jan 23, 2013
Chris Asencio
Hesperia, CA
Chris Asencio   Hesperia, CA
Really fun route. Had some wind and dirt in the eyes, but still worth the effort. Thought it was sport till the top out, lol. Jan 22, 2012
San Francisco
tallmark515   San Francisco
Definitely solid 5.9 and fun for the grade. I think I remember the crux being the final move at the top. Nov 30, 2009
Adam Stackhouse

Adam Stackhouse    
Anyway, a fun route. Feb 20, 2006
Wow - didn't realize I'd be opening a can of worms with that one. Thanks for the responses though. Very different set of politics which occurs in our beloved sport...The reason I originally asked though was that it was getting dark by the time we got three people up top and the walk off was a little sketchy in the dark. Our own fault for being up there that late but it did seem odd that with all the hangers the FA would have put in a rap anchor. As for the ethics, I'll let "those others" debate it. I'm just one of those weekend warriors that goes out and has fun on all the routes I can get my grubby scabby hands on. Feb 7, 2003
And continues, and continues.... for the last 20 ( or is it 30 ) years and more. Jan 23, 2003
You guys are so right! All the popular routes should have ORG style bolts at the top. Clip and lower!

Yeah, you guessed it, I'm one of "those guys", willing to talk about, and chop convience anchors. Why aren't more of the anchors gone you ask? Well, I might not know about them, or I might have some modicum of moderation. Jan 23, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
AZ question I have given some consideration. Perhaps it is beacuse there are previous routes here with walkoffs that are required for the descent and that adding an anchor nearby changes the nature of the previous route? Maybe to keep the routes from constantly haveing a TR hanging on them? I dunno, but I'd like to.There are almost always arguements that can be had on either side of an issue when someone wants to rationalize their convienent point of view, whatever that may be. Jan 22, 2003
If someone wanted to go to the trouble of drilling this route, why couldn't they throw in two more rap rings/hangers for the anchor? No big deal - I guess I'm just spoiled by the bolted routes in my area :') BTW - as of Jan '03 the bottom clip was a spinner. Hang on ! Jan 21, 2003