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Routes in Echo Cove - South Face

Allergy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ass of Dog T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Atari T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Axe of Dog T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bacon Flake T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bonzo Dog Band T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
C.S. Special T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Chips Ahoy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
F.U.N. TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fear of Dogs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fear of God T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flake and Bake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gordon-Bartlett T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horny Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
J.B.'s Variation TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Life and Limb T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Out on a Limb T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Pocket Veto T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Poodle Skirt T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Possessed by Elvis T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R.M.L. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Riddler, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sabretooth T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sicker than Jezouin T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sitting Here in Limbo T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Statute of Limbitations TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
TM's Terror T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Alf Randall and Dave Tucker, February 1987
Page Views: 1,437 total, 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 26, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route lies on the right (east)- most solid buttress of the South Face of the Echo Cove Rocks. It is approached via a few slab moves to a small ledge. Climb this line of 6 bolts on the rounded, bulging arete to the top. The crux is down low, starting off of the ledge with a huge high-step to get feet above the bulge. The handholds here are small and sharp. The route felt like 5.10c to me, but will be far harder for those far shorter. Flexibility might make up for height until such point that the good hand-hold can not be reached.

The belay up top is well set with large cams and/or hexes and small tricams. There are other possibilities too.

To descend, walk/scramble off to the climber's right (east) then south by a big "potato-chip" looking boulder, and the back West toward the base.

Protection

6 bolts, pro to 3" for an anchor
Jesse Wilfley
  5.10c/d PG13
Jesse Wilfley  
  5.10c/d PG13
I am 5-9+ but not 5-10 and the start matched with missing a bolt at the top was scary! At the time I wasn't used to painted bolt hangers, something to be reminded of! Hard and exposed (for me at least!) May 17, 2017
Jan Tarculas
Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c
Jan Tarculas   Riverside, Ca
  5.10b/c
5.10bish with A0 for the first bolt. I'm 5'6 and I can see the move going if I was over 6 foot tall and can reach the left hand side pull and step on the skirt Feb 23, 2013
T.J. Esposito
San Diego, CA
T.J. Esposito   San Diego, CA
Took me a good 20 mins to figure out the easiest start beta, keep reading if you want it- if you can deathgrip half-tips crimps as sidepulls you can high-step the skirt (which looks like the most obvious solution); otherwise, pinch/hug the skirt (there are some ridges you can undercling on) and build your left leg up on the ramp underneath the bulge. Then the fun part, right heel-hook next to the polished notch in the skirt and that will keep you on the rock (in addition to pulling right-hand on the sidepull crimps) while you reach up to the little bulgy flake thing.

I'm not usually one for posting advanced beta but if you get frustrated, this is what worked best for me (and didn't feel impossibly hard either).

If you're TRing, you can pull up on a draw on the first bolt, and clip the rope on second bolt to have a nice directional to prevent swinging if you slip). Jan 9, 2012
Joe Hunt
Costa Mesa, CA
 
Joe Hunt   Costa Mesa, CA
 
10b cheating. I'm 5'10" but with a 6" cheater stone 6'4". ;) Largo said it was "a jug haul." Mar 18, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
I give it 5.10b A0 - couldn't boulder through the opening move and had to use the first bolt for aid, but I'm old and stiff and high steps are a thing of the past, not sure it would've made any difference anyway as I'm 5'-11".

Crux reminded me of the crux of Figures on a Landscape.

Will S; low angle? Maybe you did it before the big 'quake...?

It's a great route. Dec 27, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10c
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10c
Fortunately I'm 6'4" and felt that the start was, although powerful, very doable. This route was thrilling and balancy at the surprise crux mantle just below the last bolt.

Mantle was a bit scary and bolt is ~3ft below your feet when making the move. Nov 30, 2009
ShaunG Gregg
SF, CA
ShaunG Gregg   SF, CA
Hard to start if you are shorter. When I got to the scary mantle I realized why the climb was dubbed Out on a Limb. Not much fun falling from the mantle above your bolt. Nov 26, 2009
Jeff Dunbar
Charlotte, NC
Jeff Dunbar   Charlotte, NC
Tried this for the first time today. I'm 5'8" and the start would require me to highstep my foot to my navel and then stand on it. With no hands. 10b? Sheesh... Mar 16, 2009
jd4567
Boulder, CO
 
jd4567   Boulder, CO
 
Vogel is right, the start is basically impossible if you are under 5'11. Worth aiding through the first move to superfun climbing above. Jan 22, 2009
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
5.9 A0. Move off the ledge is a showstopper if you can't reach the ok pinch/sidepull. Stretch, grow a few inches, etc, or do what I did, grab that first bolt and yard through. Remainder of the climbing was generic Josh low angle face/slab. Dec 4, 2007
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Big D and I did this on top rope yesterday. Cams, tri-cams work fine.You can place most any size somewhere as well as slinging an area or two. I have led this thing twice and for some reason had more difficulty doing it on a top rope. That makes no sense to me. But little does. The weather has been perfect. Nice that so many have left........ May 20, 2004
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.10b
The start as mentioned by Tony B's discription is truly the shit. Height, flexability, bad gas, and a zit or two makes it difficult at best. Beyond that it remains tough but fun as all get out. There is a small boulder off to the right when facing your partner that can easily and safely be slung for an anchor. Pro works as well in the mid sizes in particular. I lean towards the 5.10c a bit that Tony spoke of. Either that or 5.9+ (Jtree special) Mar 8, 2004