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Routes in Nuclear Reactor Rock

Chernobyl Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Helicopter Memory Farts T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Nuclear Winter TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nuke the Poodles TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Nuke the Whales T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stan And Ollie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
We''ll Get Them Little Pricks (AKA Cunning Linquist) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Mike Brown & Rick McKay, April 1984
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Mark J. Nelson on Jan 2, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Stan and Ollie follows a narrow dike that begins as leftward-trending, and straightens up fifteen feet or so off the ground. The straight up start is more difficult.

Start to the right, and gain a horizontal (so you're standing on top of the dike) about eight feet off the ground. Walk left and move up to the bolt; there's an opportunity for small gear to protect the potential ground fall here, but it's not great.

From the bolt, make a couple 5.7 sequences to gain a short, vertical, relatively shallow (deep enough for tricams, but some cams would be a little wide) crack. Fire the crack and belay atop the rock.

Walk off to climber's right.

Because of the relative ease of the walkoff and the proximity to Jumbo Rocks Campground (if you happen to be camping there), this is quite a nice place to spend sunset.

Protection

One bolt (3/8"), standard rack.

Smallish nut in an angled, sideways placement in the dike to protect the sequence onto the horizontal eight feet off the ground.

Medium cams/tricams for the belay anchor, maybe smaller depending on where you choose to build it. (Lots of good options.)

Photos

C Miller
CA
  5.7 PG13
C Miller   CA  
  5.7 PG13
The solitary bolt on this route has been replaced.

Starting the route directly makes this about 5.9 in difficulty. Oct 8, 2008
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.7
took a couple of fun ladies out to this one today... pretty easy stuff, but enjoyable... Lots of sun so a good area when colder (It was a bit Suzy Bake Oven today)... Oct 26, 2005