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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - West Face

Alligator Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chick Hern T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ella-vation T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
I Just Told You T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Itty Bitty Buttress TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mortal Thoughts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ranger J.B. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger J.D. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rap Bolters are Weak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride a Wild Bago T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sphincter Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
What's It To You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: (TR) Maria Cranor & Randy Vogel, November 1979, FL: Tom Gilje, 1982
Page Views: 1,188 total · 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is just to the right of Sphincer Quits on the west side of Sports Challenge rock. Before it gains the crack system above the start it traverses left past a bolt (crux) to reach the crack some 10' right of that S.Q., ascending 15 feet of crack before joining S.Q. and continuing to the sumit. Approach this climb as for S.Q., at the left-hand end of the west face of Sports Challenge Rock, then go up and south from the base of the wall to reach the base of this climb, this does require a small amount of scrambling to reach, but is reasonably safe.

NOTE: The current edition of the J-tree book grosly misnumbers the entire topo/photo.

Climb up on face holds to reach the right-hand edge of a horizontal feature. Step up and left onto this and protect or clip an optional bolt on Rap Bolters Are Weak as you move left to gain the vertical crack. Continue up on thin gear to a large crack where S.Q. traverse in to join your route. Go up to the ledge and climb to the summit block above. This does climb not protect easily, so it is best not to push your luck and get pumped placing too much gear. Belay as for S.Q.

To descend, rap from the bolts on the summit (above Rap Bolters Are Weak), or scramble down to the south.

Protection

A set of nuts including small nuts and a set of TCU's.

Photos

Randy
 
Randy  
 
The first lead was without the bolt on Rap Bolters, a route which was added later. Now a reasonable lead by clipping the 1st bolt on Rap Bolters. A direct start has been tried several times over the years, but hasn't gone. Dec 2, 2003
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.10d
Deceptively pumpy and sustained for how short it is (prior to merging with SQ). Takes good gear, but it's somewhat difficult to place it. Fun climbing and recommended, but be solid at the grade. Jan 10, 2007
Chris M
Hailey, ID
  5.10d PG13
Chris M   Hailey, ID
  5.10d PG13
Very pumpy with the crux of the traverse coming two moves from the end- didn't want to think about the swinging fall if I had blown the moves... Upper crack is great fun- steep and pumpy. Not a climb to push your limit Nov 3, 2009
AST
AST  
I have never lead this, but have TR'd it a few times after climbing sphincter quits. Highly recommended as a TR for practicing steep finger locking. Lower off the anchors for rap bolters are weak and place a directional.

Crux is exiting the traverse to gain the crack. Very strenuous if you botch the footwork on that move. If you don't botch it, it is still somewhat strenuous. Nov 28, 2013
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
 
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
 
I thought it was heady clipping that bolt! But the crack takes good gear, unlike Sphincter, and climbs really nicely for 25 feet or so. Dec 28, 2013

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