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Ride a Wild Bago

5.10a PG13, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 2 from 53 votes
FA: Randy Vogel & Dave Evans, December 1978
California > Joshua Tree NP > Hidden Valley Area > Real Hidden Valley > Sports Challeng… > Sports Challenge Rock…
Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

This route is just to the right of Sphincter Quits on the west side of Sports Challenge Rock. It gains a crack system some 20' right of that climb and continues to the summit.

Approach this climb as for Sphincter Quits, then scramble up and right at the base of the wall to reach the base of this climb. A small amount of scrambling is required to reach the base, but it's reasonably safe.

NOTE: The 1992 edition of the J-tree book grossly misnumbers the entire topo/photo.

Climb up and right on face holds to reach a thin crack/seam that continues up and slightly right to a shallow dihedral and the right side of the summit block. This does not protect very well or easily, but the moves are mostly positive and a 5.10 climber should easily on-sight the route. Belay from large cams in cracks, or a long cord to the bolts above Rap Bolters Are Weak.

To descend, rap from the bolts atop Rap Bolters Are Weak or scramble down the southern end of the formation.

Protection

A set of nuts including small nuts and a set of TCU's. Slider-nuts might go here or there.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The west face of Sports Challenge Rock as seen from the vicinity of Gateway Rock.
[Hide Photo] The west face of Sports Challenge Rock as seen from the vicinity of Gateway Rock.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Tavis Ricksecker
5.10a PG13
[Hide Comment] The pro was a bit tricky, and I remember being quite engaged, but it's not exactly run-out. With a little thinking, you can engineer gear that would keep you safe. PG-13, and a fun route. Nov 11, 2007
Daniel Cohn
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] It was a little tricky to place gear at crux but it is good if placed correctly. Stepping over the chasm onto the wall to start (instead of starting from the boulder to the left) was pretty easy and reasonably well protected. Definitely not R when done like that. Nov 17, 2008
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] You won't regret bringing a #4 on this route, although it could totally be done without it.

Easier than Sphincter Quits Mar 17, 2012
Mostafa Noori
 
[Hide Comment] Word of caution I almost fell twice on this when two holds up high before the wide section broke. Nov 28, 2013
AST
[Hide Comment] ^^^ The aftermath of that is that the breakable rock is now all gone, leaving a very nice hold. Nov 28, 2013
Jon Hartmann
Ojai, CA
5.10a
[Hide Comment] I have no idea why anyone said this is rated R. It’s not even rated PG. I got gear in from the beginning to the end with no problems. I recommend bringing a #4 or even better a #5 for the last 20 feet of the climb. You can get a # 3 in at the beginning of the wide ending and then a #4 will fit in the next 4 feet from that but a #5 would fit in most of the way from there to the top. Jan 17, 2021
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Once upon a time, Jon, the site didn't offer a PG option and defined R as something akin to 'A fall might cause injury.' This was true 19 years ago when I put this description up.
While you must have done a good job protecting it, and it may be possible to keep it protected, several folks have noted difficult or spaced out protection. Thus the rating on protection. A lot of people don't have or carry a #5 around, so that may also be part of it.

For my own part, I'd rather rate a route as difficult to protect when in doubt and let people be pleasantly surprised that it is 'not that bad' than say nothing at all and see an inexperienced climber get hurt for lack of that note. So for my own part, I give PG to routes that are difficult to protect, not just those that are impossible.

And now that PG-13 is an option, not just 'R', I have down-graded the route. That said, there are others who have voted 'R' as well, so we'll see what happens now in terms of what is displayed. Jan 17, 2021