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Routes in Sports Challenge Rock - West Face

Alligator Tears T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chick Hern T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Eddie Haskel Takes Manhatten T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ella-vation T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
I Just Told You T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Mortal Thoughts T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Ranger J.B. T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ranger J.D. T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rap Bolters are Weak S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ride a Wild Bago T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Sphincter Quits T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
What's It To You T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Randy Vogel & Dave Evans, December 1978
Page Views: 132 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 24, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This route is just to the right of Sphincter Quits on the west side of Sports Challenge Rock. It gains a crack system some 20' right of that climb and continues to the summit.

Approach this climb as for Sphincter Quits, then scramble up and right at the base of the wall to reach the base of this climb. A small amount of scrambling is required to reach the base, but it's reasonably safe.

NOTE: The 1992 edition of the J-tree book grossly misnumbers the entire topo/photo.

Climb up and right on face holds to reach a thin crack/seam that continues up and slightly right to a shallow dihedral and the right side of the summit block. This does not protect very well or easily, but the moves are mostly positive and a 5.10 climber should easily on-sight the route. Belay from large cams in cracks, or a long cord to the bolts above Rap Bolters Are Weak.

To descend, rap from the bolts atop Rap Bolters Are Weak or scramble down the southern end of the formation.

Protection

A set of nuts including small nuts and a set of TCU's. Slider-nuts might go here or there.

Photos

AST
AST  
^^^ The aftermath of that is that the breakable rock is now all gone, leaving a very nice hold. Nov 28, 2013
Mostafa Noori
Fresno, CA
 
Mostafa Noori   Fresno, CA
 
Word of caution I almost fell twice on this when two holds up high before the wide section broke. Nov 28, 2013
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.10a
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.10a
You won't regret bringing a #4 on this route, although it could totally be done without it.

Easier than Sphincter Quits Mar 17, 2012
Daniel Cohn
  5.10a
Daniel Cohn  
  5.10a
It was a little tricky to place gear at crux but it is good if placed correctly. Stepping over the chasm onto the wall to start (instead of starting from the boulder to the left) was pretty easy and reasonably well protected. Definitely not R when done like that. Nov 17, 2008
Tavis Ricksecker
5.10a PG13
Tavis Ricksecker  
5.10a PG13
The pro was a bit tricky, and I remember being quite engaged, but it's not exactly run-out. With a little thinking, you can engineer gear that would keep you safe. PG-13, and a fun route. Nov 11, 2007