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Ride a Wild Bago
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British PG13
Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Randy Vogel & Dave Evans, December 1978 |
Page Views: | 1,135 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 24, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest |
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The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is just to the right of Sphincter Quits on the west side of Sports Challenge Rock. It gains a crack system some 20' right of that climb and continues to the summit.
Approach this climb as for Sphincter Quits, then scramble up and right at the base of the wall to reach the base of this climb. A small amount of scrambling is required to reach the base, but it's reasonably safe.
NOTE: The 1992 edition of the J-tree book grossly misnumbers the entire topo/photo.
Climb up and right on face holds to reach a thin crack/seam that continues up and slightly right to a shallow dihedral and the right side of the summit block. This does not protect very well or easily, but the moves are mostly positive and a 5.10 climber should easily on-sight the route. Belay from large cams in cracks, or a long cord to the bolts above Rap Bolters Are Weak.
To descend, rap from the bolts atop Rap Bolters Are Weak or scramble down the southern end of the formation.
Approach this climb as for Sphincter Quits, then scramble up and right at the base of the wall to reach the base of this climb. A small amount of scrambling is required to reach the base, but it's reasonably safe.
NOTE: The 1992 edition of the J-tree book grossly misnumbers the entire topo/photo.
Climb up and right on face holds to reach a thin crack/seam that continues up and slightly right to a shallow dihedral and the right side of the summit block. This does not protect very well or easily, but the moves are mostly positive and a 5.10 climber should easily on-sight the route. Belay from large cams in cracks, or a long cord to the bolts above Rap Bolters Are Weak.
To descend, rap from the bolts atop Rap Bolters Are Weak or scramble down the southern end of the formation.
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