PRINT: Rock Climb The Importance of Being Ernest, Joshua Tree National Park

The Importance of Being Ernest

5.10c/d R, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3 from 79 votes
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, 1982
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Rdsi… > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.

The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.

This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.

Protection

Small cams and brass required, bolts on top, single rope rap down.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Double up the C3s in the roof and go for it. Pic by Kris Solem.

The burly crack start. Pic by Kris Solem.

The mental crux is pulling the roof and busting some thin moves on no pro for two body lengths. The technical crux is the second roof (no pics). Photo by Kris Solem.

The first crux of the climb. Pic by Kris Solem.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Randy
Lassitude 33

5.10d R

Lead this route for the second time (23 years later) and found it to be excellent climbing and a bit scary. 3+ of 5 stars. The moves above the first roof are heady and a fall would be most unpleasant. Above, as Murf said, small brass nuts are essential, and save a 1 to 1.25" cam for the final roof (bomber placement here). Route takes a wide variety of gear from tiny nuts to 2 inch cams. May 2, 2005

Crack Addict
San Diego, CA

Wanted to lead this one after Prepackaged but decided to TR it instead after rapping the route. Protection opportunities above the roof were scary. Aside from that it is an awesome climb and was fun to do on TR. Dec 18, 2005

Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR

5.10c/d R

Even as a TR, this is one awesome route! Thought provoking face and crack climbing. Do it. Nov 6, 2006

Dan Hickstein

I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves! Feb 24, 2007

Michael Ybarra
on the road

A good selection of thin nuts is what you want on this climb. Apr 6, 2009

darryl banks

5.10c/d PG13

fell....hung....hung again, and fell once more....scary yet fun climb and so cool. ill get it clean next time.. Mar 15, 2011

Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT

5.10c PG13

I found with modern small cams and brass that this is not R rated. Great gear but thoughtful to place. Don't forget to exit right. Mar 21, 2012

Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA

I will remember this lead climb with CLOG COGS, it was my first roof pull 1983 I was 19 years young, nice climb! May 11, 2012

Leavittator

5.10d PG13

Engaging route, quality moves. I didn't have the correct micro cams so the few good ones I had, hogged up the holds. For that reason, it would be easier on top rope. On lead, it felt like 10d. Oct 28, 2012

dnaiscool

5.10d R

The initial overhanging hands get in that flash pump...just in time to pull the roof. When I led this it had three copperheads poking straight out, so I equalized them all and put a "Screamer" on that. I found that an old school Zero Metolius TCU...the purple one... made a solid piece for the last roof move, which is not too bad if you search the lip to the right...just sayin'...I'll go with the 5.10d rating here...and an "R" is warranted...unless you have just the right gear, and a lot of experience placing it. Tim Wolfe fits that bill! Mar 29, 2015

Matt Hagny

5.10c/d R

This route climbs much better than it looks. Oct 26, 2018