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> Hemingway Buttress -…
The Importance of Being Ernest
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British R
Avg: 3 from 81
votes
Routes in Hemingway Buttress - E Face Mid
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976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Bullfighter, The T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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To Have And Have Not TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02427, -116.17832 |
| FA: | Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, 1982 |
| Page Views: | 3,834 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Murf on Dec 31, 2001 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.
The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.
This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.
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