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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Center)

976 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Death in the Afternoon T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Importance of Being Ernest, The T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Moveable Feast T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
On the Nob T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Poodle Jive T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Poodle in Shining Armor T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Poodle-oids from The Deep T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scary Poodles T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spoodle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Darryl Nakahira & Randy Vogel, 1982
Page Views: 2,185 total, 11/month
Shared By: Murf on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Pull the initial crack to the first roof. Pull up on the positive holds, and move up the thin crack. Be alert for gear placements, which are sparse but available. A fall above this roof with bad/no gear could have serious consequences on the slab below.

The second roof is the surprise of the route, discard your expectations before you get there. Interesting moves and solid gear will see you to the top.

This route is serious for the grade, but decent gear is available. The copperheads are no longer there. I took HB and BD brass and used both, but either should suffice.

Protection

Small cams and brass required, bolts on top, single rope rap down.
dnaiscool
  5.10d R
dnaiscool  
  5.10d R
The initial overhanging hands get in that flash pump...just in time to pull the roof. When I led this it had three copperheads poking straight out, so I equalized them all and put a "Screamer" on that. I found that an old school Zero Metolius TCU...the purple one...mad a solid piece for the last roof move, which is not too bad if you search the lip to the right...just sayin'...I'll go with the 5.10d rating here...and an "R" is warrented...unless you have just the right gear, and a lot of experience placing it. Tim Wolfe fits that bill! Mar 29, 2015
Leavittator
  5.10d PG13
Leavittator  
  5.10d PG13
Engaging route, quality moves. I didn't have the correct micro cams so the few good ones I had, hogged up the holds. For that reason, it would be easier on top rope. On lead, it felt like 10d. Oct 28, 2012
Mike Fogarty
La Quinta, CA
 
Mike Fogarty   La Quinta, CA
 
I will remember this lead climb with CLOG COGS, it was my first roof pull 1983 I was 19 years young, nice climb! May 11, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c PG13
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c PG13
I found with modern small cams and brass that this is not R rated. Great gear but thoughtful to place. Don't forget to exit right. Mar 21, 2012
darryl banks
5.10c/d PG13
darryl banks  
5.10c/d PG13
fell....hung....hung again, and fell once more....scary yet fun climb and so cool. ill get it clean next time.. Mar 15, 2011
Michael Ybarra
on the road
Michael Ybarra   on the road
A good selection of thin nuts is what you want on this climb. Apr 6, 2009
I didn't use any brass nuts on this climb. The first roof protects well with a bomber medium stopper. A blue-alien size is really nice for the second roof. Really fun moves! Feb 24, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10c/d R
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10c/d R
Even as a TR, this is one awesome route! Thought provoking face and crack climbing. Do it. Nov 6, 2006
Crack Addict
San Diego, CA
 
Crack Addict   San Diego, CA
 
Wanted to lead this one after Prepackaged but decided to TR it instead after rapping the route. Protection opportunities above the roof were scary. Aside from that it is an awesome climb and was fun to do on TR. Dec 18, 2005
Randy
  5.10d R
Randy  
  5.10d R
Lead this route for the second time (23 years later) and found it to be excellent climbing and a bit scary. 3+ of 5 stars. The moves above the first roof are heady and a fall would be most unpleasant. Above, as Murf said, small brass nuts are essential, and save a 1 to 1.25" cam for the final roof (bomber placement here). Route takes a wide variety of gear from tiny nuts to 2 inch cams. May 2, 2005