Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
FA: Herb Laeger et al, 1979
Page Views: 8,905 total · 34/month
Shared By: David Orr on Sep 8, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack.

P1: Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really helpful. Climb up a crack about ten feet, then jog right and follow another crack to a large ledge with anchors.

P2: From the fixed anchor atop the first pitch, step right and climb the steep hand crack up the wall above to another fixed anchor (5.10a).
Rappel from the upper anchor straight down a chimney to the ground (a 50m rope works).

Note that this upper crack/second pitch can be top roped from the upper fixed anchor after doing Farewell to Poodles or any of the other crack climbs to the left of Head Over Heals. You would climb the junky chimney (as for the start of Mind Blender) and continue straight up to the crack. 

Protection Suggest change

P1: Several TCUs and .5-1.5" Camalots. You may want to clip the first bolt with a shoulder length sling to keep the rope drag to a minimum. Two-bolt anchor/rap with links and rings on the big ledge atop pitch 1.

P2: Hand-sized pieces for the crack to a two-bolt anchor with rap rings. If you want to TR the second pitch from below, you'll need to rig it with a cordelette.