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Routes in Hemingway Buttress (East Face Right)

A Farewell to Poodles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Astropoodle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dangerous Poodle, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Easy As Pi T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
For Whom the Poodle Tolls T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fusion Without Integrity T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Head Over Heals T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mind Blender T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mind Meld TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Mind Over Matter T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Mind over Splatter T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Old Man and the Poodle, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ravens Do Nasty Things To My Bottom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Route 182 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Space Walk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Suspect Rock T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: Herb Laeger et al, 1979
Page Views: 5,154 total, 28/month
Shared By: David Orr on Sep 8, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A great climb with a combination of fun gymnastic roof turning moves followed by a great hand/finger crack. Climb up a ramp to a bolt on the right side of the roof. There is a bolt there that you can clip by lying back on a flake. Be careful not to pull out on the flake as it is thin and hollow. If you are under 5'9" you may have trouble reaching it. Make sure your shoulders and hamstrings are in good shape for turning the roof. Using your leg to lever yourself up over the roof can be really helpful. Climb up a crack (stay to the right) past a desert shrub. Be sure to stop and smell the flowers before topping out on a big ledge. In my opinion this is a great and often overlooked JTree classic.

Protection

Several TCUs and .5-1.5" camalots. You may want to clip the first (and only) bolt with a double shoulder length sling to keep the rope drag to a minimum. Rap chains at the top.
Gunkswest   CA
There's a very good second pitch to this route.

From the fixed anchor atop the first pitch, step right and climb the steep hand crack up the wall above to another fixed anchor (5.10a).

Rappel from the upper anchor straight down a chimney to the ground (a 50m rope works).

Note that this upper crack/second pitch can be toproped from the upper fixed anchor after doing Farewell to Poodles or any of the other crack climbs to the left of Head Over Heals. You would climb the junky chimney (as for the start of Mind Blender) and continue straight up to the crack. May 19, 2016
MN norske
Henderson
  5.10a/b
MN norske   Henderson
  5.10a/b
Great route. Never climbed a trad route that had this type of gymnastic moves. Threw this thing will all trad gear even though the bolt looked tempting. Great climbing. Loved this thing but I enjoy steep sport climbing. Oct 3, 2014
saltlick  
 
+1 Richard and David ^^

Though I wore myself out trying to get pro in the crack after campusing left under the roof, and couldn't pull myself up n' over on lead, the moves are solid 5.10 and (naturally) avoid sharing bolt-pro with Astropoodle.

Excellent fun and a worthy lead project for next time... Jan 20, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
Well here's the route according to Barlett's Guide:

" -- move left around a corner (passing a bolt) to a left-slanting crack leading to the top -- " Feb 9, 2013
Um. I too thought the bolt was for another climb. I stayed low (as Murf did), heal hooking, and followed the roof around to pull up onto the face/ crack. Oct 18, 2012
I think skipping the bolt is true to the original ascent. Dont foot traverse along the lip, campus and heel-hook it! Stenuous and physical for the grade Sep 12, 2011
Climbed this yesterday and found a #2 camalot worked well at the roof corner with 2' webbing for rope drag (#3 would also be fine). No need for the bolt. Campus to the corner, heel hook left and pull for the arete. Good holds here. Fine if you're taller, but my wife who's 5'5", couldn't reach the arete hold and had to campus left around the corner using a lower side pull facing right, as shown in one of the photos. Easier if you're taller clearly. But fun either way. The rest of the route is a blast as well. Rap from webbing nest 10' to climber's left.

Although length listed as 60', mid point of my 60m rope passed the belayer as I topped out, so more like 100'. Apr 10, 2007
avk
 
avk  
 
i'm short of 5'5" w/ minus 1 index. I couldn't do it by stemming above roof. I had to clip the bolt (by stemming), down climbed, and jungle gym the roof.

I thought the bolt was for another climb because there is another bolt above. but since I didn't want to do the roof without having gear above me, I clipped the bolt and unclipped the rope after pulling the roof move to minimize drag. and i hung at the roof before pulling (and above at the crack split). power climb is not my strength. i found this climb harder than "Prepackaged" at the same rating. May 9, 2006
I had to follow this one yesterday after failing numerous times trying to pull across the traverse. After watching Steve the T do the lead, I saw the error of my ways: your right foot better be as far out and behind you as possible to press you against the wall as you reach for the hold. How a short climber pulls this off, I'd much like to watch. May 6, 2005
namascar
  5.10a
namascar  
  5.10a
Nice route with a bit of everything. Face climbing, opposition, finger and hand jams. Tried the heal over heads move, I don't know if I want to do that on lead... Feb 2, 2004
You can also make it a longer (though certainly no more difficult) pitch by veering left up a crack system that continues another 30' to a higher ledge. Downclimb the leftmost gully off the backside (3rd class) and return in the notch climber's right of the start of the route by tunneling under all the difficulties (look around for the lowest/inobvious tunnel to make it much easier). May 12, 2003
I turned the roof on the corner, with the bolt directly over head. I'm 6' even and couldn't seem to reach out of the stem to the jug past the bolt after clipping so I downclimbed and went out the roof. But to be honest, it's a boatload of fun to campus around on huge jugs with your feet over your head and doing the climb by stemming would be missing all that fun! Definitely memorable as the silliest ease:steepness ratio I've climbed in a long while and lots of fun :) May 12, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10a
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10a
This is another one of those "faux" roof climbs like "Super Roof".

I clipped the bolt and carefully stepped around the corner with my feet on ledge where the climber in the picture is seen heel-hooking (I'm 6ft tall, which may help). I remember it being a psycho and powerful move.

Not quite clean enough to be 3 stars, but close.

I don't know what grade it would be climbing the roof. Jan 9, 2003
Murf  
Done the route via the roof and by keeping my feet on the rock ( with my head over my heels ). Definately more distinctive going out over the roof, but I can't help but think that the name and bolt placement indicate the FA kept the feet on the rock. Jan 9, 2003